June 28-30, 2024.
We had only one date on the calendar where we had to be in a particular place and that was June 30, the day our friend LeeAnn was set to arrive in Fairbanks. We decided to come a little early to explore the town and to visit with Aaron’s cousin’s family. But I was not that excited.
Wildfire smoke had been blanketing the region from some not-too-faraway fires. We drive all the way to Alaska just to get back to Oregon’s summer conditions? No thanks. I’m particularly sensitive to smoky air, so our visit was tainted from the get go. However, we managed to sneak in a few highlights. Before completely driving into the smoke, we made a leg-stretcher stop at the Birch Lake rest area, inhaled some still-breathable air, then got back on the road.
Things to do
Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. Our first stop in any new place is the Visitor Center. This one blows most others out of the water. It is a whole complex, featuring the standard tourist desk as well as public lands information and a comprehensive natural history/cultural museum. It is a destination in its own right. I wondered why Bend, Oregon doesn’t have anything close to this, considering the amount of tourists that filter through town. We took time to walk through the museum exhibits after getting some recommendations from the 19(?) year old kid working there.
Museum of the North. Needing another indoor activity, we made a beeline to the Museum of the North, located on the University of Alaska-Fairbanks campus. We noticed, for the first time on this trip, electrical outlets in the parking lots. I’d heard about these! During the frigid winters, people use them to plug in engine heaters so their fluids don’t freeze.
But back to the museum. I loved it. At the time, there was an exhibit on plant science research, a whole bunch of native arts and crafts, contemporary art, a whale skeleton, a temporary exhibit about sketchbooks, a sound room and much more that I’m forgetting. Wear comfortable shoes because you’re going to want to hang out in there for a while.
Eat Thai food. I’d asked multiple people and listened to a few podcasts about what to do in Fairbanks. From at least 4 different sources, I heard the same thing: EAT THAI FOOD! The first time someone said that, I rolled my eyes. The second time I wondered if they were both referencing the same article or something. The third time I thought maybe there’s something to it! Apparently, it doesn’t matter which restaurant you go to because they’re all good. I read a few reviews, then chose Thai House. Our dinner and dessert were both 10/10 good. I hate being that person that says, “well I’ve been to Thailand and”… (but I am that person). Both of us though the food was to die for and I’d eat there again in a heartbeat. Even though we stuffed our faces there was still plenty of leftovers, too!
Tanana Valley Farmer’s Market. I love a farmer’s market, but I didn’t know what to expect in Interior Alaska. What I found was a rich and thriving market with plenty of local food, incredible art and something unexpected in each aisle. We chatted with several vendors as we shopped. Everyone was friendly and had wonderful goods to sell. The only thing that saved me from breaking the bank was the fact that we didn’t have much room for stuff in the van!
Creamer’s Field. One evening, the smoke abated just enough for me to want to go out and take a walk. We drove out to Creamer’s Field, a former farm turned into a migratory bird refuge. Walking paths lead through meadows, forest and wetlands. There’s signage on the various types of birds that travel through the area. The most obvious visitor at this time was the sandhill crane. From the parking lot we could see dozens of them feeding in the tall grass. We’ve been (unintentionally) following these birds since January in southern Arizona! I had a lovely walk until I dared enter the wetland boardwalk, where I was immediately assaulted by mosquitoes. We hadn’t encountered many yet on our trip so I didn’t have any bug spray on me. I retreated to another path on the edge of a lake, but there I was chased out by a diving gull! I had flashbacks of the time in college I did a summer semester on an island in Maine that was inhabited by gulls and I had to walk around carrying a big stick over my head. If I ever get a chance to come back here, I’ll be much better prepared.
Fairbanks, with a population of only 32,000 people, felt like a huge city after having spent so much time in tiny towns. We had access to all the services and shopping we needed, as well as first class cultural opportunities and excellent restaurants. I know they have a robust trail and park network too, but the conditions did not allow us to explore very much. I count this visit as a scouting trip and I’m sure we’ll make our way back to Fairbanks sometime in the future.