August 19, 2024.
12.2 mi. | 4000′ ele. gain | 8 hr.
With one good weather day predicted before the rain, we planned to do a big hike to the summit of Thechàl Dhâl in Kluane National Park. We talked with a ranger ahead of time and did extensive research online to get a sense of what to expect up there. I knew we were out of the lambing season, so it was open to hiking. But I’d read a few reports of aggressive grizzlies on the trail, which I was not too excited to find out about first hand. We prepared for bears as per usual and got an early start to keep ahead of any afternoon thunderstorms. We started out with the mindset that one of these obstacles (or something else not on our radar) might turn us back at any time.
Go or no go?
The morning felt very windy and cool. Gray clouds filled the sky. Nevertheless, we charged up the steep trail, on alert for bears and cognizant of any changes in the weather. At the 5 km mark, the trail gave way to the unofficial scramble route and it continued getting steeper. At least the shrubs were shorter so I felt less at risk from the possibility of hidden bears.
Although the sky was full of gray clouds, they didn’t feel like the rainy type, so we pressed on into the wide open alpine. The route continued to get steeper and steeper and we had to stop often to catch our breath. As we approached the first obvious bump on the ridge, I took out my map to see how far we’d gone. It turned out to be a false summit near the SW summit, so I wasn’t sure if we’d actually be able to make it all the way. Again I braced myself for turning around. The ground squirrels scolded us as we sat on their hillside eating a snack. They don’t like visitors.
We continued walking along the beautiful ridge to the SW summit, where, despite low energy, we decided to press on. The ridge walk was absolutely delightful and I stopped to enjoy every little alpine wildflower in addition to taking in all the views. There were lots of ups and down and it was extremely windy. We walked and walked up until we reached the final annoying scree slope and then…we were there! I stood atop the tallest summit on the ridge, where I could finally see a herd of over 50 sheep resting on a nearby slope. We hadn’t seen a single sheep all day, but at last we saw the namesakes of Sheep Mountain.
A quick aside
Interestingly, we’d learn later that the indigenous name for this peak has nothing to do with sheep (there are sheep on all these mountains, they said). Instead, it is descriptive of the type of rock found on the mountain that was particularly useful as a scraper for processing animal hides. Parks Canada has a great deal of information about native people (past, present and future) in the visitor center and works closely with local tribes to educate visitors. We took a 3-hour beading workshop the next day.
The rest of the hike
We sat atop the peak, clothed in all our layers, and gobbled down the lunches we packed in the morning. As we returned down the ridgeline, I noticed the clouds beginning to clear. And what was that, gasp! The sun! I couldn’t believe how hot it got on the way down. I put my sunglasses on and started drinking lots more water. Once we got off the ridge, we started seeing people. It was a little jarring, considering we hadn’t seen anyone all day. Back on the main trail, it was a non-stop people train. I couldn’t wait to be done! But our tired legs could only carry us so quickly. And I actually needed some rest in the shade once I warmed up.
Back at the trailhead, every spot was taken. The trail is very popular, so I’m grateful we arrived as early as we did. This was just the kind of experience we’d been looking for on this long road trip up north. Big elevation, big views, dramatic weather, unique plant life and few people. I continue to be amazed at what’s in between the lower 48 and Alaska (HELLO, CANADA!!!) and I am humbled by this enormous landscape.