November 17, 2025.
“What can I do from our campsite” is the quintessential question on this journey. While Aaron sits tight in the van for work, I have to choose a destination that I can reach, by foot or bike or both, from there.
We camped at one of the designated backcountry sites on Hole-in-the-Wall Road, close to the main highway. It looked like I could make an attempt at Artist’s Palette Peak from that spot. I did a little route research, studied the map, and started walking.
There was one other caveat: rain was in the afternoon forecast. There’s no way I wanted to be caught in some desert canyon in a rainstorm, so I was on a tight timeline as well. Though it was unlikely I’d make my goal, having a goal gave me a direction to start walking and I’d figure out the rest from there.
Rather than walk back down the road, I found a nice little wash headed in the same direction. There, I found a few green plants and flowers, which is always a welcome treat in this landscape. I crossed over Highway 190 and hopped onto the (at the time, closed to cars) 20 Mule Team Road. I immediately understood why the road was closed; it was a slick, muddy death trap. It was even hard to walk on the stuff. I could only imagine how difficult it would be in a vehicle. Plus, the road would be destroyed by any car attempting to drive down it. When roads are closed, they’re closed for reasons! I know it’s annoying to have your planned vacation itinerary upended by road closures, but hey that’s just how it is.
It was slow going on the treacherous surface but it was postcard-beautiful. Normally, I hate a road walk. But, I really enjoyed taking in the scenery here. I followed the road up to a wash that would lead right up to my peak. It was fun negotiating the twisting, narrowing wash until it wasn’t. I figured out a few tight wiggles and dry falls until I got to a point where I could not continue straight up, off to the left or off to the right. The soil and rocks were steep and loose and I didn’t trust the stability of any of the boulders in or outside of the main channel. I just imagined the whole hillside crumbling underneath my feet or on top of me. With no good options, I carefully retreated.
On the way back, I explored a little bit up a side canyon with pretty green rocks, then retraced my route in the wash. To make it a loop, I veered left into the badlands and eventually back to the road. The dark gray storm clouds rolling in over the bright white slopes of Cerro Blanco made me stop in my tracks. I found a nice viewpoint where I could sit down and paint the dramatic scene.
After my painting session, I walked the rest of 20 Mule Team Road back to the main highway…almost. I got pulled into the gorgeous badlands once again, following the sinuous washes between the colorful hills. This was a fun adventure until I realized I needed to find a way out of them in order to cross over the highway. I scrambled up the mud hills to get a visual on my situation, where I realized I was 30 feet above the pavement with no way down. Annoyed and pressed for time, I kept walking parallel to the highway until I found a gash in the hillside that was safe enough to descend. Once across the highway, and clearly not learning my lesson, I again left the relative safety and ease of the road to meander through the desert. Did I mention I don’t like road walks?!
I had so much fun on this hike, despite not attaining my goal and having to problem solve a few frustrating obstacles along the way. The scenery was drop-dead gorgeous, quiet and peaceful. And I got back long before any rain fell. These hikes that don’t turn out as originally planned have always served as good learning opportunities and reminders that reaching the destination is less important than the act of walking itself.