September 5, 2024.
9.1 mi. | 3400′ ele. gain | 5:15 hr.
The Goldbelt Tram allows you to travel 1,800 vertical feet in only 5 minutes, straight up a mountain from sea level. But, it’s $60 for a day pass. They say you can use it all day long, but how many times would you really want to jam yourself onto a packed tram car in one day? I’d read online that you can hike to the top of the tram and ride down for free, as long as you show your receipt from the gift shop or restaurant on top (I cannot guarantee that’s still true by the time you read this). That settled it; we’d hike up and ride down!
We parked at the Mt. Roberts Trailhead on Basin Road. As we’d come to expect in Alaska, the trail climbed straight uphill in a hurry. We took our time negotiating the rugged terrain and avoiding tripping on the copious tree roots. In about an hour and a half, we made it to the top of the tram. In 1.8 miles, we’d ascended about 1,500′. Not too shabby! We poked around the buildings, which were just starting to open. There was a short trail around the top of the tram that had several totem poles scattered throughout the trees.
At that point, Aaron circled back to the tram top buildings and I continued along the ridge toward Gastineau Peak. I wasn’t sure how far I’d get, but I wanted to push along as far as I could, if the weather held out. I promised to meet him back at the restaurant for lunch.
The trail passed in and out of the brush for a bit, then it dove into head-high alder and berry bushes. It was tight and narrow, with poor visibility. Being out there alone, for one of the first times since we left the mainland United States, all I could think about was bears. I talked to no one as I crashed through the brush.
Lost in thought, I startled a porcupine, who quickly retreated into the thick vegetation before I could even think of getting my phone out. I saw no bears on my way to the ridgeline.
As I walked along the steeply rolling alpine terrain, I imagined how gorgeous the scenery would be if it weren’t immersed in clouds. The ridge instead took on an eerie yet pleasant character. I continued all the way to Gastineau Peak, messaged Aaron on my Garmin InReach and headed back to the tram. If the weather had been nicer, I would have planned on hoofing it all the way to Mt. Roberts, but that would not be so today.
The best part about ending a hike in civilization is the quick access to burgers. I quickly took a seat next to Aaron at the restaurant and in a matter of minutes we had food on our table. After lunch, we stood in line waiting for our ride back to the bottom. There was decent visibility on the way down, so that we could actually see the channel below us. In just a few minutes we poured out of the tram car and walked out on the cruise ship dock. What a weird town.
Since we began our hike on Basin Road, we still had over a mile, mostly uphill, to walk back to our van. We paused downtown to stop into a few shops and have a cocktail, then finished the walk through the neighborhoods. It was a full day experience and so uniquely Juneau!
