We spent a week in Haines, Alaska. It’s a small fishing town with few amenities for tourists. I loved it. There, we had enough time to do two hikes in Chilkat State Park (plus some other fun stuff).
Twin Coves
August 29, 2024.
7.2 mi. |880′ ele. gain | 4:15 hr
Doing research for southeast Alaskan things to do cracks me up. Check out this writeup of the Ayiklutu Trail. That sparkling summer sun? They probably had one nice day 15 years ago and have been using this promo photo ever since. We looked outside the van window. As expected, it was gray and drizzly and nothing like the photo. Armored in our rain gear, we stepped out into the forest.
I immediately felt transported to the Oregon coast. Thimbleberries and salmonberries glistened beneath a huge, green canopy of evergreens. The trail alternated between mud and boardwalks that crossed the wetlands, which were choked with skunk cabbage. This led to the Chilkat Inlet, a moody bay sitting beneath a cloud bank. It was breezy and quiet.
Next, the trail re-entered the fairytale forest. Thick moss covered the ground. Sitka spruce, with their long, low branches and sharp needles guarded the forest. Colorful mushrooms popped up everywhere. It was already beginning to feel like fall. We walked until we found a nice resting spot and had a snack. Then, we made the last push to the Twin Coves.
Although the trail continues another few miles to Seduction Point, we decided to make this our turnaround spot. When we reached the rocky beach at the second cove, we wandered out onto the dramatic rocks of the point and made a loop back to the trail. The rock was quite interesting, forming parallel layers that were at the same time sharp and slimy. We looked for critters in tidepools but alas, nothing besides algae.
The wind and rain picked up on our return hike. By the time we got back to the van we were soaked! We rinsed off our muddy feet and legs, then quickly fired up the electric kettle to get some hot drinks made.
Mt. Riley
September 1, 2024.
5.4 mi. | 1560′ ele. gain | 3.5 hr.
During a welcome break from the rain, we decided to take a hike up Mt. Riley. Again, the tourism board really worked hard to drum up every nice day photo of this hike that they could find. I was happy enough for “not rain” for our adventure.
The first mile of the trail was wet and muddy, with a few boardwalks and lots of roots. I had to lift my leg up high with each step just like when I go snowshoeing. We found lots of delicious berries along the trail as it climbed, steeply, out of the wet lowlands. Bunchberries, which are technically edible but reportedly not good, provided some bright red color all along the way. Huckleberries and raspberries, on the other hand, provided motivating snacks for the journey.
Up and up and up through lots of switchbacks (so not Alaska) we reached another series of boardwalks. These allowed us to cross a black spruce bog. Low lying clouds clung to the scrawny treetops. After clambering over some slick rock slabs, we located the actual summit. Through the blowing wind and low visibility, we found a sheltered spot to sit and eat a snack.
The walk down seemed to take no time at all. The sun even dared to send rays of light through the trees for the last half of the hike. But, by the time we finished, it was gone again. This would be the new normal for the rest of our time in Alaska. Not only were we now in the notoriously wet southeastern rainforest, but the seasons were changing. It was time for darkness, colder weather and rain, rain, rain.