April 3-5, 2025.

Photo album

Since learning how to use the sound ID feature in Merlin about 2 years ago, we’ve been enjoying learning more about birds. While plotting our route across Arizona, I noticed the Cave Creek Canyon area. It’s world-renowned for its birding, so I thought we’d stop in and see what all the fuss is about.

I did some research online, but the amount of information from the Friends of Cave Creek Canyon was a bit overwhelming. I took some notes, then stopped into the visitor information center, which is staffed daily from 9-3pm (check the hours online before you visit!). The volunteer there helped confirm some information and direct us to our best camping options. She also recommended grabbing a site ASAP because they fill up, even on weekdays.

Silver Peak

While Aaron forged ahead to secure a campsite, I got my wiggles out by hiking up Silver Peak. I began hiking across the gorgeous desert scrub under a big, blue sky. I stopped to observe all the pricklies: yucca, agave, cholla, hedgehog cactus, sotol, all the usual suspects. Imagining what it would be like to see them all in bloom brought a big smile to my face. Today, I’d have to settle for the greenery.

I enjoyed the solitude on this trail. The only sound was my heavy breathing as I toiled uphill. The altitude really got me! Eventually I caught up to a pair of hikers that stayed just out of my sight for the first couple miles. We chatted for a bit. They’d visited this area several times and had plenty of great advice to share. I thanked them for the suggestions and I leapfrogged ahead. After that, I finally got my lungs to cooperate and I kept a steady, comfortable pace for the remainder of the hike. The upper half of the canyon felt much different from the lower section. Oak and pine trees dominated the landscape, replacing the yuccas and cacti. I noticed different bird songs too.

As I approached the top, I stepped aside for several hikers coming down who appeared to be from the same group. They were walking at wildly different paces; the last two were just leaving as I arrived. Quickly, I put on my down jacket and got out my snacks and painting supplies. I made a seat on what was left of the old fire lookout foundation and began to paint.

Just as I was ready to pack up, the couple I’d met earlier poked their heads through the shrubbery. They made it! We talked for a bit before I scurried back down the trail. The hike down felt longer than I expected, mostly because all the loose rock made my feet sore. I stopped several times to photograph the plants I wanted to post to iNaturalist later, giving my tired feet little micro-breaks.

I sent Aaron a message with my ETA at the trailhead so he could drive back to pick me up. He beat me there, so he walked up the trail a bit and finished the hike out with me. I’m so glad he got to see some of this beautiful trail, too.

Herb Martyr Campground

Aaron had found us a nice campsite at the almost empty Herb Martyr Campground. It’s small and nothing special, but the other campgrounds were packed. I was grateful for this quiet retreat. A small creek ran behind the campground and several types of birds were happy to flit around this peaceful patch of forest. With a flat place to park and a toilet nearby, we had no complaints. We paid for two nights.

South Fork Trail

Based on the information shared by my hiking friends and the volunteer at the visitor center, we decided to take a birdwatching hike up the South Fork Trail. We got to the trailhead by 9 am to make sure we got a parking spot and found the place empty. At a casual pace, we strolled up the trail. At any sign of a bird, we stopped to observe. Aaron pulled out his binoculars and I trained my ears (and Merlin) on the sounds in the air. We enjoyed watching the entertaining and highly social acorn woodpeckers and I delighted in seeing my first yellow-eyed junco!

Shockingly, there was some running water higher up the canyon. Even more shockingly, it began to snow before we reached the junction to Red Rocks (one of our possible destinations). With thick clouds and rapidly deteriorating weather, we decided to retreat.

On the drive out of the canyon, we pulled over when we saw people standing at the bridge. This was another birding hotspot that was labeled on the map. We chatted with some folks here and observed a few more birds. Then we were intercepted yet again by a lady on her bike who let us know about an elegant trogon that was hanging out at Sunnyside Flat Campground. We thanked her for this information and raced over there.

The elegant trogon is one of those birds that people travel to Southern Arizona for. I’d completed a painting of this bird for my friend recently, but I’d never seen one in real life. Aaron dropped me off and parked the van. A man in a tan vest greeted me and gave me the scoop on the trogon. It was so exciting to see one of these colorful, beautiful birds just a few yards away! Aaron got back just in time to see it, too.

Cave Creek Ranch

By this point, we knew the drill. Don’t try and plan an activity from scratch, take the advice from the people here who know what they’re talking about. So we paid our $5 each to park at Cave Creek Ranch and watch the birds. I made some lunch and we plopped down in one of the bird viewing areas.

The property serves as a basecamp for birders, with various lodging and trip options. But, they’re open for day use for people like us who are just passing through and want to see some migratory birds. From our seating area we could see feeders for hummingbirds, woodpeckers, finches and many other types of songbirds. The seeds that fell to the ground also served to attract ground birds like quails and doves. We were inundated with sounds and colors and feathers and buzzes from every direction! No matter where I looked, there was something interesting to see.

We hung out for over 2 hours practicing our bird identification skills and talking with bird nerds from all across the country. It was an afternoon well spent.

Next time

If I were to come back here with more time, I’d like to venture into Portal to visit some of the other properties on the birding map. Apparently so many people are into birds here that they let the public come into their yards to set up shop near their bird feeders. The Chiricahua Desert Museum, just across the border in New Mexico, also looks like a great place to visit. We are still pretty new to birding, so I’m sure the pros know exactly when to visit and what to look out for. Right now, we’re happy to see and hear anything that happens to be traveling on our route!