Category Archives: Washington

West McMillan Spire

September 7-9, 2012.

West McMillan Spire

Goodell Creek trailhead > Terror Basin > West McMillan Spire and back

Approximately 20 miles | 9000′ ele. gain

Picasa Photo Album

This was my first venture into the Picket Range in the North Cascades. The Pickets are notorious for the burly approaches and challenging, remote peaks. I was really excited to get going but a bit nervous about what to expect.

The original plan for our team of four was to tackle the South Face of Inspiration Peak, a multi-pitch 5.8 rock climb accessed only after crossing a heavily crevassed glacier. I was a bit skeptical of this objective since we were getting such a late start to the approach, but I was just happy to have the opportunity to poke around up there.

On Friday morning we picked up permits in Marblemount and drove to the Goodell Creek climber’s trailhead. We got off to a casual start around noon and began hiking up the trail. The trail followed an old roadbed for about 3.5 miles. It was flat and extremely well-maintained for a climber’s trail. But the pleasantness was immediately over when we reached a large cairn and arrow made of rocks that directed us straight uphill. Over the next few miles, we gained about 6000′ of elevation. Steph Abegg has a great graphic that shows the mileage and elevation here.

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It was hot, and we were working really hard. Eventually we popped out of the forest, traversed along some cute heather meadows and then continued up some more. I was happy to find ripe huckleberries along much of the approach. They were like miniature morale-boosters.

The sky was growing dim and we were still nowhere near our camp. We finally approached the saddle that we’d cross to drop into Terror Basin. On the other side was a steep slope and a snow gully with a moat near loose rock and vertical dirt. I assumed we’d have to descend the moat, so without delay I began downclimbing. It was really crappy and loose but with the snow directly to the side it felt less exposed than downclimbing the slab. At the bottom, however, the loose stuff continued and the snow went away. We all made it down this treacherous nastiness without incident, and hightailed it across more snow and rock to find a camp. Just as the sun went down we settled in near a big boulder with a flat, sandy sleeping spot.

In the morning, our team dropped from four to three as one person opted for a rest day. Again, we were off to a late start. I knew Inspiration was out of the question. An hour of walking brought us to the camp we’d hoped to reach last night. Another hour brought us to the foot of the glacier. It was heavily cracked up and it would take some skillful navigating to find a direct and safe route to the rock. Then, there were several hours of climbing left on territory that was new to all of us.

Terror Basin
I asked if there was an alternate peak we could get up from here. Glenn suggested the west ridge of West McMillan Spire, a third-class scramble. We could clearly see the gently sloping ridge from where we stood. it looked totally doable, so we changed our itinerary and set out towards the spire.

The glacier crossing here was very moderately sloped and crevasse-free. We took our sweet time ascending the snow, stopping every so often to look around at the awesome scenery and to guzzle down some water. It was murderously hot! The air was almost perfectly still and the sun was blazing.


We stopped short on the glacier, avoiding the steep snow finger that led to the base of the west ridge. Instead we angled onto some rock and decided to “lead” a couple of pitches to get some use out of all the rock gear we’d hauled up here. We stashed most everything else, including 2 packs and all the snow gear here. Then I started up a vertical-ish slab and placed a couple of pieces for the hell of it as I quickly scrambled up easier and easier rock. I belayed my partners up and Glenn wandered further to pick out another crappy vertical section and we got some simul-climbing practice in. Yeah, not for me. Now I know.

West Ridge West McMillan Spire
Once we put all our toys away we each chose our own adventures up the mellow west ridge. I went for the more solid, vertical sections since they were short and fun and not that exposed. The guys seemed to prefer the loose talus and scree for whatever reason. Either way, we all made it up to the false summit and then completed the final traverse to the small summit block. The views up here were hard to beat. The mountain dropped away steeply in all directions. We had amazing views of the Picket Range and beyond. Glacier Peak, Mt Baker, Mt Shuksan and the Liberty Bell Group all stood proudly among the glaciers and spires. I could see no evidence of human civilization in all 360 degrees around me. It was spectacular.

Summit shot

Descending the ridge was mostly easy. We had to avoid the steep stuff near the bottom that we’d simulclimbed up. Instead we took a loose, exposed gully back down to a point where we could see our packs. Here Glenn veered off across ball-bearing covered slab to another loose gully where he was cornered in a moat. Brad and I chose the awesome slab on the other side and got down pretty easily. It was amusing to watch Glenn in action as he self-belayed with a nut tool over the narrow but deep snow moat.

We walked back down the glacier, staying to the left this time, to avoid crossing the waterfalls and having to downclimb the steep, polished slabs we came up. From there, it was a mostly straightforward snow and slab traverse back to camp. By now I was pretty worn down and was really looking forward to taking off my boots and settling down in camp. Even though we just did an easy scramble, it was still an 11-hour day.

Dan was looking rested and spry as he had a nice, mellow day hanging around the beautiful camp area. No one else had been down in the basin since we’d arrived. We all ate dinner and watched the sun set, then happily headed off to sleep.

The next morning, I awoke in a hanging mist and couldn’t see a thing from camp. We were totally socked in with clouds. That was going to make for a super fun day.


Another lazy start (arg!) this morning meant it was also going to be a long day. We were all dreading the awful moat we’d had to descend from the saddle to enter the basin and had been strategizing alternate routes for the way out. We left camp at 7:45 am and trudged up the snow to the more solid-looking rock beneath the moat to our right. It looked mostly easy and straightforward, but it was steep and exposed and we’d had our heavy packs on. We ended up protecting two pitches–one on the slabs beneath the moat and the moat itself. This was the smart thing to do, but it did cost us a couple of hours. At 9:45 we were finally up and over the saddle and began the long walk out.

We wandered through the clouds, following trails worn through the heather and cairns marking the rock as we slowly began the long, traversing descent. But the mood changed rather quickly when the real descent began. Just as surely as the trail shot straight up a couple of days ago, it dropped straight down in a hurry. This was the most heinous descent I’d ever done. my quads and knees were screaming for mercy. My feet weren’t faring any better. There was no relief along the way, it was just all down all at once. I relished every tiny bump that led uphill as opportunities to give my poor muscles a rest.

Cloudy forest

But all was well as we dropped down the final bit of trail to the old forest road. From here, walking would be a breeze. I kept my internal radio station on mindless, mellow songs as we cruised all the way back to the car. By 3 pm we were done.

This was arguably the most challenging trip in recent memory for me. What surprised me the most was that my muscles didn’t feel completely spent the next day. I guess that means I could have pushed harder. And THAT means I will be back in the Pickets again soon.

Sahale Climb

August 26-27, 2012.

With my Forbidden Peak climb plans falling through, I quickly made plans with Lee to take his son up Sahale. We left Portland early Saturday morning to pick up permits at the Marblemount Ranger Station for the next two nights. Luckily, permits were available since we hadn’t come up with a backup plan.

After killing a day chasing bunnies and trying the various eating establishments in Marblemount, we drove to the end of Cascade River Road and prepared for a long day of hiking. We had an 8-year old with us and I had no idea how that was going to go. I assumed the worst.

The hike began on the trail to Cascade Pass, which was extremely well graded, with the most switchbacks I have ever seen. Nonetheless, about 5 minutes of walking passed before the little guy wanted to sit down and take a break. So, it was going to be like this…

Lee was good about setting short goals, like we’ll take a break after X switchbacks, but there was still an awful lot of resting and not a lot of walking. I was hoping to at least be able to hunt for huckleberries as we plodded along, but as this was a very popular trail, the berries were mostly picked over. I got a few, but quickly lost interest in looking.

Cascade Pass

Hours later we made it to Cascade Pass and took a lunch break. The views were breathtaking from here. A huge, wide valley opened up in front of us and throngs of hikers came and went across the trail. Once we left the pass, the trail switchbacked a bit steeper now. Up on Sahale Arm, the grade dropped and the views became more enthralling. We walked through green meadows dotted with patches of wildflowers. Dramatic, craggy peaks rose up from the valley on all sides. I could recognize Eldorado, Forbidden, and Johannesburg, and the others were too numerous to count. It was here that I broke away from the other two (sorry…) and blasted away towards camp.

The end of the trail rose sharply up a loose talus field to the camp, which was perched atop a gravelly moraine. A hiker we passed earlier recommended the camp on the second of three domes, so I chose that one for us. I unpacked, ate some food, drank lots of water, and took some pictures. It felt so good to have that heavy pack off my back and Crocs on my feet.

Camp

45 minutes later, the boys rolled into camp and G was instantly bored. I was flabbergasted. I will spare the details of the hours whiled away at camp.

The sunset was spectacular. Pink clouds decorated a dimming sky and the moon rose over the snow-capped peaks. I took a walk to the composting toilet, which was right out in the open on the ridge to camp. Using the loo was not for the shy camper. I was tempted to linger there, as the views were particularly gorgeous.

Sunset

The next morning, we awoke to clear skies and a cool breeze. It was going to be a great day. We motivated to get breakfast going quickly and start climbing the mountain. It would take some time to gear up at each of the switchovers, so the more time we had, the better.

A short jaunt from the camp brought us to the base of the glacier, where we put on crampons and roped up. I would head the team with Lee on the other end and his son just about 10 feet away from him on the middle of the rope. I thought that would put me out of earshot, but I got to deal with being ordered around by an 8-year old screaming to “slow down” or “speed up,” depending on what he felt like doing. Actually, this is not much different from roping up with adults; being on a roped snow climb is obnoxious unless you have a really killer team of climbers who are all on the same page.

Sahale glacier

The glacier was mellow and short. Soon we were taking off our crampons to ascend a rocky pile to the base of the summit block. This also took some time, as the rocks were loose and I didn’t take the time to coil the rope nicely so I was dealing with a mangled rope butterfly held over one shoulder. We didn’t know exactly where the climb started and Lee mistakenly sent me, the worst routefinder in the universe, to scope it out. I stopped basically where I didn’t feel comfy scrambling without a belay and built an anchor there. I led up and over a rocky corner just a short ways until I found a rock slung with a red piece of webbing. I belayed them up and led a second pitch. This time I found a legitimate route on solid rock with good gear placements. I also found a sweet fist crack that had some webbing inside it, which I clipped and climbed over.

The summit area was small, but there was more webbing there so I quickly got safe and put the dudes on belay. It was windy and cold up there, so I hunkered down and appreciated bringing the BD guide to make the belaying chore a bit more bearable.

On the summit

View of Glacier Peak

With the 50 m rope, two raps brought us down to safe terrain and we hiked back to the snow from there. Crampons on, ropes on. This time I took the tail end of the rope as the kiddo and his dad led out. This was perfect. I kept enough rope in my hand as a buffer to allow me to walk at a reasonable pace and I may have let the rope pile up a bit on my end in places. There were a few big cracks in the glacier but our route was well away from them and so we were in a very safe situation. We made it back to camp around 1pm, in time for lunch.

The plan was to hike out and drive home today, so lunch was casual as we packed up and prepared to leave. Still, it was over an hour before we took off. The area was so beautiful I hardly cared. I took this opportunity to look around and enjoy the scenery. We even spotted a bear grazing in the meadows beneath the trail. Cool! But, walking behind an 8-year old was taking its toll on me. Rushing forward, then stopping every 10 seconds for no apparent reason, taking snack breaks at least 4 times an hour, and making funny noises just pushed every button I had. I jumped ahead of the crew once we got to the edge of the Sahale Arm and waited for them at Cascade Pass. There I chatted with some other hikers and tried to stomp on a critter scoping the area for dropped crumbs. We stuck together through the rocky section just beyond the pass, but as soon as it was time to stop AGAIN I made a break for it and finished the trip down on my own.

Bear

Forbidden Peak

It was nice to have some space to breathe and get lost in my own thoughts. As I turned one switchback after another, I drew little images in the dirt to amuse the child who was hopefully following close behind. I hoped that it would break up some of the monotony for him. It’s hard enough for big people do climb mountains; I could only imagine that it would feel like a huge undertaking for a child.

Overall, Sahale is big bang for the buck climbing. It’s mostly a hike, with a little bit of mild snow climbing and a short rock climb. Incredible views make this a five star trip. Go during the week for the best chance to get a permit or make it a day climb to avoid the permitting hassle.

Gear: 50 m rope, crampons/axe, light alpine rack to 1″, long runners

Loowit Trail Backpack

July 8-9, 2012.

30 mi | 6000′ ele. gain | 17.5 hr over 2 days

I’m not a backpacker. I don’t know what inspired me to say “yes” to this trip.

Oh wait, it was Sue. My friends invited me to join them on a two-day circumnavigation of Mt. St. Helens on the Loowit Trail. It was not really my style, walking around a mountain instead of up to the top of it, but I thought I’d challenge myself and spend some time with my friends outside.

We began at the June Lake Trailhead. We walked through a lovely forest for what felt like a brief moment before busting out onto the lava flow. Here we scrambled on boulders, traversed steep hillsides and descended (and re-ascended) scree-filled canyons. We were exposed to the full brunt of the sun, which was out with a vengeance today.

The landscape was beautiful. Mt. St. Helens stood tall in all her glory, right in your face. Distant Mt. Adams vied for attention over the rolling hills between the two mountains.

I walked, uncomfortably, with the weight of a heavy pack on my back. My body never did like carrying much weight, no matter how strong and fit I felt. A strap rubbed, blisters formed, something was just never right.

Walking onto the Plains of Abraham, I realized that the exposure I had felt was nothing compared to what I was about to face. During the peak temperatures of the day, we walked for miles across a desolate lava flow with not a tree or shrub in sight. The sun was relentless. We’d have to find a campsite much beyond here, out of the blast zone, so there was no stopping now.

At about 1:30 pm we stopped at a rushing streamlet to sit and have lunch. Oh I could have stayed here forever. I took my pack off, washed my face and tried to enjoy the vistas in front of me. I had to psyche myself up to keep walking.

Onward we went, across the lava, across one river after the next. Later that afternoon, we got a short burst of entertainment as Scott spotted a herd of elk not too far from us. We stopped to watch them for a bit and then carried on. A group of five young elk began walking straight towards us. The others scattered in the other direction. We thought for a moment there would be a face-off, but eventually they went their own way.

Delirious from the heat, I counted steps and pulled out all the strategies I knew to keep my morale up. Now, just one more obstacle between us and camp: the South Fork Toutle River.

This crossing sucked big time! A steep descent on loose pumice led to the river crossing and then up again on the other side, taking one step forwards and two steps back! Slide, slide, slide on the gravel UGH. Are we there yet?

We found a passable flattish spot in some trees on the other side and dropped our packs. This is where we’d sleep for the night. We traveled about 18 miles in 10 hours of hiking today. Time for dinner and some much needed rest.

The next day, we got up and broke camp by 8:30 am. I was rearing to be done as soon as possible to get out of the heat. But my legs could only carry me so quickly.

I diverted myself by enjoying the wildflowers: beargrass, lupine, avalanche lilies, trillium, snow. SNOW? We crossed some massive snowfields as we made our way slowly towards June Lake. There were some hot and exposed sections on this side of the mountain, too. The day was a bit of a blur. Slow walking over varying terrain: wooded trail, loose gravel, lava blocks, snow, streams, everything was thrown at us. It took 7.5 hours to finish the last 10 or so miles out, a pathetic pace.

This may have put the nail in the coffin on backpacking for me. Too many miles in too short a time. Too much hiking in the heat. And no highpoint to show for it. I’ll endure misery for summits, but for doing a lap around a thing, I’m not sure that’s for me.

Dog Mountain

June 27, 2012.

6.5 mi | 2820′ ele. gain | 2.5 hr.

Dog Mountain: arguably one of the most popular hikes in the Gorge. So I headed out here on a Wednesday afternoon for some exercise, bracing for crowds. Just exercise. Training, perhaps. I can do this.

The meadows on Dog Mountain are well known for their spring wildflower display. I wasn’t sure if I had timed this right, so I just put my head down and started walking. About 20 minutes into the hike I was stopped in my tracks by this incredible sprig of flowers:

I had no idea what it was, but it sure was pretty. I took a photo and kept hauling. Up and up I went, huffing and puffing my way towards the top. I paused briefly after entering the meadows to enjoy the luscious views. The snowy Mt. St. Helens peeked out from over Dog Mountain’s shoulders. And the meadows themselves were lovely, filled with multi-colored flowers.

There were a few people and their dogs on top. I stopped for a snack and a little rest for the legs before heading back down. I jogged part of the way down—this was training, after all.

I was back at the car at 5:30 pm, just in time to get back for dinner. It’s so nice to have these beautiful training hills so close to town. Another day, another adventure in the books.

Horseshoe Ridge

April 14, 2012.

Siouxon Creek Trail > Horseshoe Ridge > Siouxon Creek

10.8 miles | 2600′ ele. gain | 6:15 hr

This hike came together quickly after a recommendation from a friend on Thursday night. I found myself a hiking partner on Friday and we met up on Saturday to try this wooded loop near Mt. St. Helens in the Gifford Pinchot Forest. Although we arrived just after 8 in the morning, there were already several cars parked at the trailhead. I was hoping to avoid people this day (as usual) and was curious about what all these folks were up to.

Less than a quarter mile from the trailhead we found most of the car’s owners camped along the river, with kids and dogs aplenty. We happily cruised by along the beautiful, green river and admired the abundance of mosses, ferns, and early spring blossoms covering the forest floor.

At about 1.25 miles we arrived at the junction with the Horseshoe Ridge trail. The trail, which had been gently rolling downhill at this point, suddenly rose steeply as it gained the ridge. The trail was brushy and narrow. Our pace slowed down and as we climbed we were pleased with the lack of snow on the ground. Knowing we’d be gaining over 2500 feet in elevation, I was prepared to hit snow at some point in the day, but it seemed to be perfectly clear.

The ridge was more scenic than I’d imagined. There were occasional breaks in the trees that would have provided an excellent view if we hadn’t been socked in with clouds. As we sat at an early viewpoint, I half expected to see a beam from a lighthouse and a low bellow from a foghorn; it felt like we were perched upon a coastal bluff. The air was chillier than I’d hoped, so we didn’t dally at our non-viewpoint long. As we ambled along the ridge, we began to see the occasional patch of snow on the slopes to our left. I was thrilled that it was over there and not over here.

Our bliss was short-lived, however, as the snow ultimately took over the ridge. As we continued our walk, the trail roller-coastered up and down underneath several inches (or more) of wet, sloppy snow. Hoping that the snow would be patchy and inconsistent, I chose not to put my gaiters on. Hours later I would regret that decision.

Up until we reached the junction with the logging road, Sue and I were able to follow the occasional pink ribbon in the trees and old footprints in the snow. We never felt like we got that far off track.

At the junction, however, the tracks disappeared. A pile of downed tree boughs and scattered human garbage indicated that some slob had made camp here and didn’t pick up after him (or her) self. I didn’t see any frozen limbs sticking out of the snow so I assumed this person got out safely and just had no regard for fellow hikers making their way to this camp. We searched the woods for any sign of a trail, looking for cut branches and depressions in the snow. I found myself saying things like “this looks trail-y” and so the two of us pressed on in hopes of completing the loop. At this part of the hike, a logging road essentially paralleled the trail so we had some sense of where we were.

Once we left the safety blanket of the logging road behind, it was a search for sawed tree limbs and a logical path through the snow. I plodded ahead in fits and starts, keeping the ridge to my left, rushing ahead when I found a clue and slowing way down when I felt off track. I kept checking back with Sue to get confirmation that it felt like we were going the right way. I only had the hand-drawn map in the hiking book to guide me, and I had forgotten my compass today. I’m not sure that it would have helped anyways. Our amicable conversation had ceased to exist during this miserable section of the hike. I think we were both bemoaning the challenging nature of walking in unpredictable and unforgiving snow as well as not entirely being certain where we were or how far we had traveled.

Miraculously, and after what felt like many hours of carefully following faint clues of the trail along the wooded slopes, we made it back to solid, dry ground. We rejoiced as our soggy feet and tired muscles touched upon easy walking. I’d had enough postholing/sidehilling for a lifetime.

We stopped to have a snack once we got back to Siouxon Creek. That was enough fuel for the hike back to the car. Along the way we passed several groups, almost all of which were walking with white dogs. A small portion of the riverside trail was washed out, and pink flagging on nearby trees served as a warning to tread carefully. We arrived back at the car just after our planned return time that would get us back to Portland for Sue’s evening event.

You’re welcome, to anyone who attempts this loop soon. The trail has been tracked out for you. Just remember to bring your snowshoes so you can avoid the major suffer-fest we had up there.

Cape Horn in winter

January 16, 2012.

7 miles | 1200′ ele. gain | 4 hrs.

I met up with a fellow Portlandhiker for this lovely hike on the Cape Horn trail. I’d been here before but not in the snow.

The gorge was dusted in a coat of pretty white. The air was cold and dry, perfect hiking weather. It was nice hiking with a fellow hiking enthusiast, and someone I’d only just met in person for the first time. Back east I hiked with people from the Internet all the time but here it was much less frequent. We shared stories about past hikes, dreamed up future adventures and spent some time in quiet solitude. The trail can do that: both inspire chatter and demand your silence.

It’s interesting to go back and hike a familiar trail in winter conditions. The trail is different, the experience altogether new. It’s almost like cheating—finding a novel experience without having to do any new research.

And winter brings solitude in many cases. Hiking falls off the radar as people switch gears to skiing, snowboarding or retreating to their homes til spring. The Columbia River Gorge trails, overrun with humanity in the peak of summer, fall silent during the winter season. The landscape gets a respite from overuse so that it can be ready for the onslaught of spring rains and human footfall.

Goat Rocks: Old Snowy and Ives

September 24, 2011.

about 14 miles | 3700′ ele. gain | 8 hours
Snowgrass Flats > PCT > Old Snowy > Ives > down talus to PCT and out

Photos from this trip are on Picasa.

Sue and I left Portland early to arrive at what we thought was a reasonable time. When we pulled into the Snowgrass Flats trailhead parking area just before 9 am, the place was overflowing with cars. I was already not excited about my first trip to the Goat Rocks.

We walked for a couple of hours through unremarkable, forested terrain. The trail was well-maintained and well-graded, so we were able to cover a good amount of miles without too much work. We saw a handful of people who were mostly carrying overnight packs. I was happy to cruise by with just a small daypack.

Once we broke free of the trees and entered one gorgeous meadow after another, I began warming up to the hike. An undulating ridge overlooked the colorful wildflower display at our feet. Remnant snow patches still lingered on the rocky slopes. Paintbrush, lupine, gentian, and asters provided a never-ending show of beautiful hues. We followed the trail as it gradually gained elevation along zillions of switchbacks that ascended to the highest point of the PCT in Washington State. Along the way we watched a train of horses heading up the trail, spied a lazy marmot enjoying the sunshine, and admired the intriguing rock formations. There was never a dull moment.

Once we hit the apex of the PCT we turned left to climb the north ridge of Old Snowy, our destination for the day. Ahead of us was another group of hikers with a small child, moving upwards at a glacial pace. We cruised by and were greeted at the summit by a Mazama team who were enjoying some snacks. Once the other group caught up, it got awfully crowded up there and we wanted to leave. I had gotten the idea that we could tag Ives while we were up here and it was so close. I didn’t have any specific details besides follow the ridge to the summit.

It didn’t take much convincing to get Sue to agree with the new plan, so we happily departed under sunny skies along the bumpy ridge connecting the two peaks. The route turned out to be surprisingly straightforward. We had to negotiate our way around several large gendarmes along the ridge that looked more challenging than they actually were. Along the way we came across bits and pieces of climber’s trails and the occasional series of boot tracks. There was a considerable amount of loose rock on the route that reminded me of climbing back in Oregon. We essentially followed the ridge as it rose and fell, passing by an interesting rock arch and other notable geological features, until we hit one steep talus slope taking us to the base of the summit’s ramp. From the base of the ramp we were able to follow a climber’s path up the rock to the top.


It took an hour to reach summit #2. We stopped here to soak in the solitude that we longed for on summit #1. It was beautiful up here; we got a great view of Gilbert Gottfried Peak (or Curtis-Gilbert or whatever the kids are calling it these days) as well as Mt. Adams. Although I could have sat up there for hours, we had some friends to meet at a car campground that evening, so we packed it up and eyed a route down.

It was easy to see the PCT junction in a huge patch of dirt far below us. We headed down a talus field, crossed over some snow, then lots more rocks, until we bottomed out in the meadows. After dumping the rocks out of our boots we glided across the wildflowers to reach the trail again for some easy walking. The time from summit to trail: 1 hour.

As we walked out, we kept turning back to burn the images of the expansive and lovely Goat Rocks into our retinas. I was sad to leave the open meadows, and didn’t look forward to the treed-in slog ahead. We passed several more backpackers on their way up and I was glad that I would not be camping up here with everyone else. I suppose since the Goat Rocks are accessible for such a short period of time, that all the use is concentrated in that fleeting window.

I will certainly return to the Goat Rocks, preferably in the off-season with some snowshoes or skis. There are some other peaks and areas that I am interested in exploring. This was certainly a nice introduction to the area. We took a quick jaunt up Nannie Peak the next morning before taking the long drive back to Portland.

Olympic Mountain Backpacking

August 4-7, 2011.

Check out all the photos on Google Photos.

Rick had been planning this trip for years. Last spring I selfishly went and broke my left foot, so we had to cancel our plans to head out to the Olympic Penninsula and climb Mt. Cruiser, one of Rick’s last remaining targets for his mountaineering career. This year I managed to stay healthy so we recruited one more team member and headed into the forest on a sunny, Thursday afternoon.

Flapjack Lakes

From the Staircase Ranger station, the approach follows a mostly flat trail along a river for 3.5 miles to a junction with the Flapjack Lakes Trail. Along this trail, we were surprised by our first and only real wildlife sighting. Four goats came traipsing up the riverbank and plopped themselves right on the trail. We sat down and took off our packs, happy for a short break, then annoyed when they just hung around and made no effort to move on. A couple of times, one goat would rush over to within a few feet of us, stop and then walk back. One particularly old and ratty looking goat made a nice cozy bed for herself in the middle of the trail as the others perused the vegetation for something tasty to eat. Now the goats weren’t cute or fun anymore; they were a nuisance. We strapped on our packs and motioned to start walking and immediately the goats darted up the talus on the upper slope of the trail. We continued along to the first trail junction.

Now the trail began to climb, seriously, for the next 4 miles. Somehow I managed to swap out carrying the rope for this leg of the journey. All I remember was being hot, sweaty, and worn down. The sound of cold, rushing water was almost everpresent but the water was never accessible. The first water crossing was on a bridge high above the stream and after that the water source was out of sight. I slurped down water from my Camelback but all I wanted to do was drop my pack and go for a swim. After what felt like forever we arrived at Flapjack Lakes, where Rick scouted out a campsite.

We set up camp quickly and went to work preparing dinner. This would be my first of three home-dehydrated dinners that I would savor on this trip. We relaxed, enjoyed the weightless feeling of being sans pack, and discussed a plan for the next day. Since we were a small team of three, and Cruiser wasn’t far from camp, we decided we would leave after everyone got an adequate night’s sleep.

Mt. Cruiser- South Corner 5.0

Sure enough, everyone slept in the next morning and we rolled out of camp at 9:30 am. We followed a trail towards Gladys Divide, which offered some challenges as it kept disappearing beneath snow. Some faint old tracks went off in a variety of directions, and a poorly placed piece of pink flagging also set us off course. I was relieved each time we picked up the trail and especially when we reached the snow-covered boulder field that indicated the start of the route.

When I was here a few years ago in early September, the boulders were completely snow-free. It took our team forever to negotiate the jumbled, rocky mess. This time, a smooth snow slope led all the way to the top of Needle Pass. We put on crampons and traded out poles for ice axes to begin this leg of the trek. We methodically made our way up the snow, then stowed axes and crampons to scramble up the 3rd and 4th class slab to our leg. This began the “up” portion of the up-and-down rollercoaster of a ridge ride to the Cruiser summit block.

A little downclimbing, scree sliding, snow skirting, and brush scrambling later we arrived at the top of a dirty chute that gave us a great glimpse at our prize. Unfortunately, we could see a major snowfield covering the talus at the base of the chimney that would allow us to proceed to the rock climbing. (Is that why we’re here?). Rick ran back to get the axes we’d left behind with our crampons, which we thought we wouldn’t need. Meanwhile, we dropped our backpacks and put on our harnesses, carrying a minimum of supplies from this point on. Once he returned we descended to the snow.

It turned out that the snow had melted out near the rock face above it, creating a moat. My partners lost interest in crossing the snow because it was icy and hard and we didn’t have our crampons. Instead, we traversed across the ledges on the rock wall. I felt uneasy about it since one slip would land you down inside the deep moat, so I had everyone tie into the rope and I led out, placing a few pieces of protection and belaying the other two up into the chimney. There was a conveniently located rap station about halfway up the chimney that I used for my belay anchor. From there we unroped and finished ascending the chimney, through the cannon-hole and up onto the wide platform above.

My belayer anchored in at the belay station for the 5.0 rock pitch and I set off into the clouds. The rock before the bolt (30 or so feet up) is the sketchiest, and offers no opportunities for protection. So, I carefully made my way up to the bolt, clipped in, and cruised up to the ridge. I clipped a bolt at the belay station, placed a nut on the ridge for a directional, and continued up to the summit. The ridge walk was really cool, although it would have been nicer to have some views and sense of scale. The rock edges dropped off into nothingness, like the railroad bridge scene in The Lost Boys. Clouds had completely socked us in up here.

The others followed, one by one, and we shared the small summit. There was nothing to see here, and it was already past 3:30pm, so we decided to get out of there. We downclimbed the ridge and rappelled back to the belay area, where we coiled the ropes and skeedaddled through the cannon hole and back to the first rap station we encountered. From here, I had a plan…

There was no way I was going to take us back along the sketchy rock traverse above the moat. But since we had two ropes with us, it looked like we could do a double-rope rappel from the chimney that would take us down below the snowfield, thus clearing both the dicey rock and the snow. I tossed the ropes down and headed out.

I cannot quite express in words the joy of being the first person down an exploratory rappel route. My first ordeal was unraveling the ungodly kinks in one of the two ropes. It was coiling itself around the other rope and also around itself. There was so much friction in the system I could hardly move anywhere. Then, as I reached the bottom of the chimney, I realized I was going to rap into the bottom of the moat. It wasn’t exactly straightforward to get from the rock to the snow. The ropes sat in heaps on the ground well below me. I wedged my body between the rock wall and the edge of the snow, using clumsy chimney technique to move myself horizontally along so I could reach a point where I could transition on to snow completely. I imagined the stupid rope ends laughing at me from their cozy spot under a dripping snow canopy. Locking off the rappel I pulled up the remaining rope, flaked it out, and tossed it onto the snow, watching the ends stretch out downslope. I estimated I had enough rope to make it to a melted-out patch of rock near the far side of the snowfield.

Through a complicated dance of sliding my butt against the rock face and switching my feet 45 times between the rock wall and snow wall, I launched both feet on to the snow and began bounding down the slope at an angle to the bare rock I’d been eyeing this whole time. With about 8 feet of rope to spare, I reached the rock, unclipped my rappel, and shouted for the others to follow.

Once we were all safely off the rope, we tugged and tugged until the rope came free and tumbled down the chimney and snow to where we were gathered. Again we packed up and set off towards our backpacks. It was about 6 pm and we hadn’t even stopped for lunch yet so we were all pretty wiped out and hungry. With no time to spare, we grabbed a couple of bites of food once we reached our packs and started walking again.

Fortunately, the team was confident enough to descend the slab without a hand line or belay so we continued at a reasonable pace until we reached Needle Pass. We put crampons on again and descended the icy snow all the way back to the trail. Once we reached the trail, we removed our crampons, switched axes for poles again (isn’t this fun?) and bombed down the trail. We had an easier time following it this time, and we made it back to camp just before dark–at 8:15 pm. Needless to say, we absolutely chowed down on dinner and then went straight to bed.

Mt. Gladys

We woke up at about the same time the following morning, with a vague plan to visit Mt. Henderson. None of us had been up there before, but it was seemingly within reach from our camp at the lakes. We trudged up the Gladys Divide trail again, passed the Mt. Cruiser turnoff, and stood at the top of the Divide in glorious morning sunshine to survey the area. Mt. Henderson stood tall and mighty, overlooking basins filled with lakes and snow. Several hills and ridges undulated between where we were and where it was. A timid band of clouds threatened to close in on us just like the day before. Intimidated by the task ahead of us we opted instead to stroll up gentle Mt. Gladys, which was within spitting distance of our current location. We walked up through soft snow and occasional tree clumps to the rounded summit of Mt. Gladys. We could see the clouds making a more marked presence in the valleys, so we decided this would be our summit of the day. Our legs were tired from the previous climb, and it didn’t take much convincing to call it a day. Since the weather here was much nicer than what the dark forest would offer us back at camp, we settled in to a long afternoon of eating, napping, and lounging around on this beautiful viewpoint.

I had my big lunch today: whole wheat bagel with tuna salad, carrot sticks, Del’s frozen lemonade (with snow) and a delicious brownie. I enjoyed the sunshine and the occasional drift into dreamland as I sat in this alpine paradise. Three hours later, after the clouds had thoroughly filled in every nook and cranny in the entirety of the Olympics, we retraced our boot prints in the snow to find our way back to Gladys Divide. Back in camp, we split up. I changed into Crocs and wandered around the forest behind our campsite to photograph flowers and wander among the huge, fallen logs and mossy boulders. It was a lovely forest filled with gigantic trees and lots of places to explore. When I tired of that, I returned to sit by the lake and do word puzzles. It was a relaxing afternoon.

Return to Staircase

On our fourth day, we decided to head home. Originally we had planned to make it a five day trip with three summits, but sometimes things don’t go according to plan. I had a great time here, and I was happy that we accomplished our primary goal.

This time we got up early and broke camp by 8 am. Rick had already taken off, leaving Asia and I to walk back at a slightly more human pace. I didn’t get to take many pictures on the way up so I made an effort to be more observant and less goal-oriented on the way down. It was an enjoyable walk. Flowers were everywhere: trillium, queens-cup, avalanche lilies, violets, bunchberry, the list goes on and on. The greatest observation, however, was the abundant patch of ripe huckleberries that we’d completely overlooked on the hike in! I was astounded that, even with the late snowpack and spring flowers just starting to bloom, that any huckleberries were ready. I think we killed a half an hour just grazing along huckleberry row. I filled up the little pouch on my backpack waist belt with berries to munch on later. Now this is how you experience the woods!

We met up with Rick again at the Flapjacks Trail junction, where we shifted rope-carrying duties and prepared for the last bit of walking along the river. The weather felt pretty nice. The sun was up there somewhere, and I was happy for a stretch of flat trail. We blasted out of there in no time at all, since we didn’t have to wait for any goats this time. We were back in three hours flat. That bag of chips I had left in the car was a blessing. Mmmmmmmmmm……..

Mt. Adams, South Spur

July 27, 2011.

All photos are here.

After a foiled attempt at Adams several years ago with some friends, I finally got my chance to return to the mountain. Except this time, there would be no heavy overnight pack–I planned on getting up and down in a day. Fortunately, another person indicated similar plans so we joined together on a gorgeous July day to do just this.

Nat and I departed from Portland the night before so we could camp at the trailhead and get an early start. After a couple of rude awakenings from obnoxious snowboarders during my precious little sleeping time, we were off on the trail at about 4:45 am. Snow patches on the trail began almost immediately and within a mile or so we were pretty much completely on snow. An hour after we began walking we caught a nice glimpse of Adams in the early morning light. It was so far away!

The trudge uphill was made slightly nicer by turning around to see Mt. Hood peeking through the clouds and St. Helens looming above the western flank of Adams. It was a very pretty area. We had been following a criss cross of boot tracks all morning, and caught up to the aforementioned snowboarding yahoos below the Lunch Counter resting among a rock pile. We walked among several other rockpiles before settling on our own resting spot to have a snack, rest, and reassemble layers.

Once atop the Lunch Counter proper, and within sight of the endless slog up the moderate snow slopes leading to the false summit, we put on crampons and began methodically pushing our way uphill. There were a few shallow glissade chutes breaking up the slope, as well as a variety of boot tracks. I tried to avoid both, making my own switchbacks uphill on the hard, crusty snow. Every now and again, I’d stop to look around and take in the view. It was the same view, over and over, for what felt like forever…

I was happy to crest the top of the false summit, if only for a second, because it was here that the wind picked up ferociously. I quickly added multiple layers, including my giant puffy, and questioned the sanity of the man walking towards me in shorts. The view from here was spectacular, and one I’d never seen before. A wide, snow-covered plateau lay ahead of me, with a gently rolling slope at the other end that led to the true summit. I still had quite a bit of walking to do. But, walking on flat and slightly decending terrain was a welcome change of pace. It wasn’t long before I crossed the plateau and began the last steady, uphill slog.

There were several groups on and around the summit. As I sat on top, snacking on treats and hugging my limbs into my down jacket, I looked back at where we’d come from. There was no sign of the solo guy who was behind us, nor of the group of snowboarders we’d leapfrogged on our way up. The sun was shining, and views reached from Mt. Rainier to Mt. Hood. The building that allegedly stands on the summit was nowhere to be found, covered by a hefty snowpack.

A short glissade took us down the first hill leading from the summit to the flat expanse connecting us to the sub-summit. At the edge of the lip leading down to the 2000′ drop to the Lunch Counter, I waited in the burly wind for Nat. I had to put my down puffy back on to cut the cold. Sure didn’t feel like the end of July! Once he arrived, we prepared for the real glissade. I had a pair of old snowpants on, my jacket tucked into my pants, and my gaiters secured tightly around my legs. It was go time. I sat in one of the established chutes and eased myself down. Soon, gravity took control and I was tearing down the hillside, giddy like a child at a waterpark. It was outrageous fun. There were banked turns breaking up the long straightaways. Snow blasted up into the air as my body and axe dug into the sides of the chute. I had to self-arrest three times to get my out-of-control self back to a manageable speed. I was laughing so hard on the inside I occasionally let out a yelp of excitement. Within just a few short minutes I got up off the snow and looked back up at my starting place, over 2000 vertical feet away. Now THAT’s how you get down a mountain.

We still had some miles to cover to get back to the car. We changed clothes again, had a quick snack, and made our way down the now slushy snowfields, following footsteps and the occasional wand, until we reached the trail. Once we hit terra firma I set my mind on cruise control and stopped for nothing until I got back to the trailhead. What a great day. The agonizing uphill haul was worth it for the sweet ride back down.

On a side note, we stopped at the only place in Trout Lake for food before driving back to Portland. I’m not sure if the food tasted so good because I was hungry, but I had an OUTRAGEOUSLY good BBQ burger that was so giant I couldn’t fit it in my huge mouth. I ate every last speck of it, too.

Three Corner Rock

June 21, 2011.

Three Corner Rock Trail > summit and back
18 miles | 4500′ or so elev. gain | 8 hours

Complete photo album here.

The morning began with the obligatory drive east to the edge of the persistent gray that shadows the Portland Metro area. When I arrived at the trailhead I knew it was going to be a good day. I parked my car right at the trail marker, not knowing there was a parking lot just a few yards up the road. Immediately the trail began to switchback at a gentle grade, leading me up into the forest. As usual, I stopped frequently to take pictures of the lovely wildflowers and practice my plant identification skills. The trail ambled onward, going up and down so frequently that if I walked just a little faster I might feel seasick. The sun was mostly blocked out by the thick tree cover, but it managed to burst through the foliage every now and again. I was glad that the shrubs on either side of the trail were spraying me with water to keep my body cooled down. I hadn’t quite adjusted to summer hiking yet.

A few miles up the trail, the path goes down, down, and down some more. I knew I had to go up eventually, so I was hoping there was a good reason why the trail was built this way. Soon, it would all be clear. I passed by a “Bridge Out” sign, and proceeded to descend to Stebbins Creek. Today, the water level was low, but I didn’t want to get my boots soaked crossing it so I stripped down to bare feet. The water was so cold that the blood escaped from my lower extremities so quickly I thought I was going to lose function of my feet. I got across as fast as I could, then put my chilled toes back into my socks and boots, then proceeded to regain all the elevation I’d just lost.

I listened to the birds, watched out for snakes in the sunny sections of trail, and worked on de-cluttering my brain. This was my second day of summer vacation and I really needed the decompression time. I’d hoped that I wouldn’t run into anyone out here today. As the trail began to flatten out and follow a ridgeline, I was treated to patches of beargrass and other early summer wildflowers. The trees began to thin out, allowing more sunlight to extend down to the trail. Occasionally I’d catch a glimpse of far away, forested ridgelines, hoping I didn’t have to walk that far (but knowing deep down I did).

Before long, the trail crossed a gravel road, and I noticed a van parked right on the other side of the road. It was blocking the cairn marking the trail on the other side, so I mistakenly walked up the road a bit looking for the continuation of the trail. After several minutes of not finding anything, I turned back and found the trail, knowing now that my destination was awfully close.

Shortly after walking up more switchbacks, I heard some loud whooping and hollering in the distance. This totally pulled me out of my internal musings and brought me back to annoyance and frustration. Who would be up here screaming and yelling in these peaceful woods? I noticed mountain bike tracks along the trail earlier, so I thought maybe some mountain bikers are bombing down the trail. I carefully turned each corner, looking ahead and being prepared to step aside to let them pass. Then the voices started shouting at each other in Spanish. Okay, now this was getting very odd, because in all my years of hiking 99% of the hikers I encounter on the trail are White. To my surprise, four young Latino men walked down the trail carrying huge loads of freshly cut beargrass on their shoulders, presumably heading back towards their van. I smiled and said hello, and they quietly passed me by. As soon as they were out of sight they began yelling loudly at each other and screaming like a bunch of drunk frat boys. The whole thing felt really bizarre. I’m not even sure they were harvesting legally, but I didn’t exactly want to confront them about it. I was incredibly glad when they walked out of earshot so I could continue hiking along in peace and quiet.

It felt like hours of walking through blooming meadows and dry, rocky outcrops before I reached the summit area with its giant radio tower. An old trail led to the top of the rock pile, complete with deteriorating slabs of cement walkway and metal handrail posts sticking straight out of the ground. I was relieved to plop my pack at the top of the old lookout site and rest my tired legs. From here, I could see five volcanoes. It was awesome. After taking too many pictures, I thoroughly enjoyed my PB&J sandwich, then laid back and took a short nap.

It was really difficult to get up and leave but I knew I still had a long walk before I would be back at the car. I had set a goal earlier to make the round trip in 8 hours, and looking at my time so far I knew it was still do-able.

The sun was fierce now all I could think about was the cold, cold stream that was miles away from here. I didn’t stop much on the way down. My pace was slowed because my knees were tired and my feet were sore, so I just dove back into my head and moved methodically along. When I reached the stream, I was happy to remove my boots and walk across. I stopped on the other side to eat a snack and douse my head and neck with water. An hour and a half later, I was back at the car, both happy and exhausted.

I would recommend this hike to anyone who has a decent amount of stamina. None of the trail was that hard due to the moderate grade and neatly maintained shrubbery. However, the overall length might make it difficult for the average weekend warrior. I know there are some shortcuts that bring the hike down to a 5 mile round trip or so. Either way, this summit is well worth the work.