Category Archives: The Long Roadtrip

Hiking the Wichita Mountains

March 28-30, 2024.

Photo album

Tucked away in the southwestern part of Oklahoma, past flat lands and wind farms and ranches, lies the beautiful Wichita Mountains. Its granite outcrops, rolling prairies and winding waterways make it a perfect haven for wildlife, notably elk, bison, deer and Texas longhorn. Within the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge, visitors will easily spot “The Big Four” from the car. We were delighted to see so much wildlife among a spectacular backdrop in this part of the country.

But I had to get out of the van and explore.

Little Baldy

Our visit began at the ranger station, where I got some hiking recommendations. We also enjoyed the many exhibits on native flora and fauna. I was getting really excited to see more of this area, having knowing almost nothing about it before we arrived. We checked into our reserved campsite at Doris Campground, then wandered off for a hike just before sunset. I saw people standing on top of a bald summit just outside camp, so we walked in that general direction.

We tried our best to stay on trail, but there was such a web of braided use paths that it didn’t really matter which way we went. I followed the best wildflowers and Aaron played ground is lava by hopping from rock to rock. My attention flittered from cactus to rock to water to sky to flowers and back again. With everything being so unfamiliar, each item felt like a new discovery. We eventually made our way to the rocky top, where we looked over the lake and watched turkey vultures soaring below us.

From there we took a small detour to a beautiful old dam, then followed the water’s edge back to the campground road. On our way, we stopped upon hearing a crashing through the forest. A longhorn was battling its way through the underbrush, its horns getting caught on all the vegetation. I bet he won’t take that shortcut again!

Charon’s Garden to Elk Mountain

I wanted to see as much diversity in the park as I could while Aaron was at work. Not to be deterred by the poor advice I got at the visitor center, I decided to carry out my south-to-north traverse, starting from the Treasure Lake Parking area. As I took my first steps out of the van, I felt like I had been transported to Joshua Tree National Park. Granite boulders lay in lumpy piles all around me. Bird song filled the air. Cactus grew determinedly in every crack and crevice.

Again, I tried my best to stay on trail. But the proliferation of user trails leading in every which direction made that a futile effort. This place could use some trail funding! I used my map to help me stay roughly on route, stopping to visit the (unsurprisingly disappointing) Post Oak Falls on my way through the boulder jumble. Based on the volunteer’s description yesterday, I thought I’d be doing a lot of scrambling through this section, but there was almost none. My guess is that he got way more confused by the user paths and ended up way off trail. My navigation skills kept me on the tamer sections of the trail, boo hoo. Perhaps I should have done more exploring.

I counted at least 20 species of birds (that I could identify) on my way to the Elk Mountain trailhead. I knew I was close when I began seeing other hikers. Once there, I detoured toward the broad peak. Here as well, the trail followed a tangle of sinuous paths. I picked the least crowded ones that led me toward my destination. The trail actually doesn’t go toward the summit. Once I reached the vicinity of the top, I rambled around the long slabs and boulders making up this massive rock feature. The wind blew so hard that I put all my layers on to stay warm. It whipped up tiny whitecaps in the pools of water left by snowmelt or recent rains. The place was an absolute playground; if not for the relentless wind, I could have wandered around there all day.

After eating my lunch, I bailed back downhill to a place that had a view of the mountain suitable for painting. Then, I finished the hike and waited for Aaron to pick me up.

The Narrows

We had one more hike to do. I like to find short, big-bang-for-the-buck walks to do after work so Aaron can enjoy the places we visit during the week, too. We drove to the Boulder picnic area and followed the Narrows trail past Boulder Cabin. We rock-hopped across the creek, climbed up a steep hill on the other side and topped out at a gorgeous viewpoint above a horseshoe bend in the river. Northern rough-winged swallows soared and dove for bugs swarming above the creek. Rock climbers calling “on belay!” echoed through the canyon. The sun sat low in the sky, calling the day to a close. But our visit wasn’t over yet.

Mt Scott

The refuge is unique in that it offers just as much sightseeing by vehicle as it does by foot. Our last drive brought us to the top of Mt. Scott, where we got panoramic views over the surrounding area. It was full of visitors taking selfies, enjoying time with their families and scrambling up the little rockpile to the official summit. We walked the perimeter of the parking area watching for any new birds or wildflowers. It seemed a great spot to wrap up our visit here.

While staying in developed campgrounds and driving to popular lookouts is not typically my jam, I happily made an exception for the Wichita Mountains. It’s a remarkable place with stunning beauty, interesting geological formations, a plethora of wildlife and a spectrum of colorful flowers. I highly recommend putting this place on your bucket list!

One year in a camper van: a review

April 30, 2024.

On April 28, Aaron and I celebrated our one year vanniversary! We left our home in Bend, Oregon on that day in 2023 to set off on a two-plus year road trip. In the past year, we’ve seen and done so many things that are impossible to summarize in a short blog post, but I’ve chosen to reflect on a few elements of our travel that I find interesting to talk about. And so, our year in review…

Camping | Travel planning | Community | Education | Surprises |Top ten list

road trip
Van in the wild.

Camping

We’ve been tent campers our whole lives. Being thrust into the world of van camping took us a bit by surprise. We camp in almost a completely different way due to the convenience of our rig. No more campfires, no more set up and break down time, no more long winter nights with nothing to do.

To be honest, I thought I’d miss campfires more than I do. Now, I find them more of a nuisance than anything. When we are forced to camp in an actual campground where people are having fires, it’s hard to breathe and everything gets saturated in smelly camp smoke. Since we have a comfortable place to hang out in the van, complete with plenty of things to do, we almost never feel the need to make a fire. Besides, with all the restrictions and high fire danger in most of the places we travel, it’s relatively unethical to even consider having a campfire.

Since we have good lighting and (when we need it) ample ways to stay warm in the van, we can spend time reading, writing, playing games, making art, watching movies, etc. And since every day is a camp day, it feels less alluring and special to do things we only do at camp, like build a fire. Plus, we filled our van storage area with everything we own, so there’s no room to throw firewood in the back. On rare occasions, when the conditions are right and firewood is scattered near our camp, we’ll bust out a campfire.

Travel planning

Some of the apps and websites I use for trip planning. Some.

As much as I love planning camping adventures, it has become a bit of a beast to have to be in constant planning road. I feel like it’s a part-time job to calculate drive times, find legal places to park overnight, scout open skies for Starlink on Aaron’s work days, as well as locate public facilities like bathrooms, trash dumps and water fills. Some counties and states have been much easier to plan than others. Cities can be an absolute nightmare with overnight parking bans, especially for tall vehicles like ours. I’ve learned to use a variety of apps and services to locate places we can legally park overnight (I’m not interested in stretching the rules and ruining the ability for others to park in the future).

I was reluctant to sign up for any paid services, but I decided to try the combo of Harvest Hosts and Boondocker’s Welcome for a year to see how I liked them. After barely 6 months of our annual membership, we’ve stayed at 14 different locations on the apps, some for multiple nights. We’ve met some great people, visited local farms, breweries and restaurants we otherwise wouldn’t have known about and enjoyed beautiful, convenient places to stay.

It sounds like an ad, but for the way we travel, these apps have been essential. As we moved away from the vast public lands in the west, we’ve needed to be more creative in finding places to stay and the folks who offer up parking on both sites have really helped! I especially enjoy the boondocking sites in cities, so we have a place to park where Aaron can work all day and I’m walking distance from shops, museums, trailheads and other services. I expect we’ll rely heavily on these services on the East Coast.

The other app that I use on a daily basis is iOverlander. This provides an interactive map overlaid with crowdsourced data about places to camp. Options include private and public paid campgrounds, dispersed campsites and safe, legal places to park in cities. Since the data is crowdsourced, it’s not always accurate and I cross-reference anything I find with Google maps satellite data, public lands data and internet searches. I find it just as useful to confirm places I want to stay and places I do NOT want to stay, based on the type and volume of public comments left for given locations. So far, I have found a ton of great camp spots by using this app!

Community

We both feared that full-time travel would isolate us. But we’ve both noticed that since leaving home, we’ve felt more connected to community than ever. As with anything in life, you get back what you put in. And since we worried about losing connections as we wandered off into the unknown, we made a good effort in making sure we not only kept the friendships and loose connections we had, but actively created new ones on the go.

As much as people complain about social media, I’ve learned that you can make it your friend or foe. I aggressively unfollow any account that offers me no benefit or is a constant stream of hate, judgement or just shows the worst of people. Instead, I actively look for people who share things that I’m interested in: hiking, art, wildflowers, travel, nature. I also have no problem reaching out to strangers on the internet when we share things in common, or if I’ll be traveling to their neck of the woods soon. Most decent human beings are happy to share advice or knowledge if you show them some interest and respect. I’ve even made some real life friends from first meeting people online.

Our Capoeira community has also been a bottomless well of joy, support, strength, personal growth and culture. We’ve made stops to train in Eugene, Oakland, Berkeley, Las Vegas, Albuquerque, Denver, St. Louis, Tucson, Phoenix, El Paso, Juarez (Mexico), the list goes on and on. In each new place, we forge connections with fellow Capoeiristas, both people we’ve met before and people we haven’t. Sometimes we just go to class and nothing more. Other times we share meals or other social activities. And sometimes they offer up a driveway or recommendation for a place to stay. Although I feel the effects of not being able to train in a group on a regular basis, they always welcome us with no judgement and are happy to meet us wherever we are (physically, mentally, musically!) I appreciate having this art as a foundational part of our trip.

Sweaty post-Capoeira photo from Albuquerque

In addition, we’ve still regularly attended our book club (now over Zoom!). We sign up for service projects every few months. I send a monthly newsletter as well as personal cards, postcards, letters and art. I’ve joined an online art class/community where I can geek out about painting with other watercolor artists of every skill level and background. And we occasionally get to meet up with our friends who come to us! We’ve been so grateful to share our travel with our friends. Also, the breadth of our journey has led us to visit friends and family who we haven’t seen in 5, 10, even 20 years. It’s been so fun to reconnect with folks all over the country. Maybe, you’re next?

Education

I have always had a love of learning and a vast curiosity about the world. This trip has blown the doors wide open, providing countless opportunities to learn and be challenged about what I think I know. We’ve made many stops at historic and cultural sites. Botanical gardens and zoos. Workshops and lectures. Guided tours and hikes. We’ve learned from ordinary people just going about their normal business in places we’ve only read about and developed deep unconscious biases about.

Every act of service is an educational opportunity. By joining volunteer projects, we’ve met great people, learned new skills and developed a deeper understanding of and appreciation for an area. We’ve done some trail work and joined trash clean-up parties. We’ve also done many trash pick ups on our own.

I think travel can be a great teacher, but only if your mind is open to learning. I’ve met plenty of travelers who seem to have missed the memo and are outright rude or woefully uninformed about the places they’ve been. I try very hard to see the good in all people, but I’m often surprised at the massive gaps in knowledge among people who should know better. For me, travel has taught me to be more humble and to question what I know with honest curiosity. The people who speak confidently about how they’ve got the world all figured out—those are the ones you need to watch out for.

LGBTQIA+ history in San Francisco

Surprises

Speaking of bias, let’s talk about the Midwest. This was the most recent time I felt like I spoke too confidently about something I didn’t know much about. I knew all the stereotypes, which I’ll spare you here. But when we actually visited the Midwest (my first time, even), I found that I really enjoyed myself. We found gorgeous outdoor landscapes, delicious food, incredible art, engaging museums and lovely people. I don’t know why I had such an innate revulsion about the idea about visiting this large, diverse swath of land in the middle of the country. That was extremely short-sighted. Now, I don’t know if I could *live* anywhere with no mountains, but I’d go back and visit in a heartbeat.

Now let’s talk sunsets. Since we’re basically outdoors every day, we’ve seen hundreds of epic sunset. There’s no way you can watch a sunset and not have faith in the world. Each one so different, so perfect, so awe-inspiring. I’ve seen plenty of sunsets before, but something hits different when you see one almost every day. I just appreciate them so much more now than I ever have.

You have no idea how long it took me to choose just one sunset pic to share.

And finally, it’s become easier for me to experience awe on a daily basis. Literally everything is exciting because it’s brand new. I was getting pretty good at this even back in Bend, but I am certain that I find multiple things that break my mind open every single day. Whether it’s a flower or bird I’ve never seen before, a new sound, a curious natural phenomenon, a unique piece of architecture or a novel way to present a familiar food. I am constantly gob smacked by everyday things. I remind myself that every place I visit is someone’s home. Someone knows every nook and cranny, has identified every flower, tree and fungus, has seen that bird a million times. But not me. And as I face new experiences on a daily basis, it is very easy for me to find joy in ordinary things.

Surprised that I haven’t talked about our van build? You can find van stuff ad nauseum online if that’s what you’re into. I have no interest in monetizing our lifestyle or promoting brands. I would just love to break even on paying for web hosting (#goals). So if you want to talk van details, you can find that elsewhere. We spent a lot of time and money investing in something that would make this trip easy, and it’s basically all panned out. I’m sure we’ll have breakdowns and other issues down the road, but things have mostly gone to plan so far. People travel in vans for dirt cheap and in luxurious style. People have been traveling nomadically for as long as there have been people, and this is just one of the latest iterations. We’re grateful to have this opportunity and see no end in sight yet!

Top ten list

  1. There
  2. Is
  3. No
  4. Way
  5. To
  6. Compile
  7. A
  8. Top
  9. Ten
  10. List

By this time, you should have expected this. I can’t stand a top ten list. I can’t tell you my favorite place, favorite hike, favorite flower, favorite restaurant. And even if I could, they wouldn’t necessarily be *your* favorite. Each day I have new favorite experiences, and they’re not necessarily repeatable. The weather, my mindset, interactions with other people, how my body feels, what I’m thinking about, all of these variables impact my experience at any given time and place. So, I encourage you to quickly scroll past any website that offers a top ten list. Instead, go make memories wherever and whenever you can. Every place is special, if you arrive with an open mind.

There are no best places, best products, best people, best anything. But there is so much to learn and a vast amount of space to explore in this short lifetime. However you are able, I hope you can get out and enjoy what this state, country and world has to offer.

Got questions? Please ask away in the comments or send me a message! I’m always happy to talk hiking, van travel and anything remotely related to this post.

Waking up with 30,000 sandhill cranes in Southern Arizona

Romero Canyon

March 18, 2024.

13.7 mi | 2930′ ele. gain | 7:30 hr.

Photo album

In search of wildflowers and a good, long hike, I strapped on my backpack and ventured up into Romero Canyon. My hike began from our campground in Catalina State Park, which was no more than a gravel parking lot stuffed to the gills with monster RV’s, trailers, vans and multi-room tents. It was an absolute nightmare. I couldn’t wait to disappear up a trail. Ringtail campground: do not recommend.

I walked up a multi-use path to the main trailhead, where I immediately took off my shoes to cross the creek. On the other side, my heart and soul were soothed with big views and colorful wildflowers. The cacophony of voices swiftly dissipated as I gained more distance from the creek. This was a popular place, and for good reason! Lots of folks were out enjoying the beautiful morning.

The trail climbed up and over some rocky business before dropping down into the canyon. I made frequent stops to photograph and identify flowers. To an Arizona native, these flowers were likely nothing to stop for. But, since it was mostly all new to me, each bloom was a miracle of nature.

Upon reaching Romero Pools, I soaked in the views, crossed the creek and kept exploring. Each step was more and more beautiful. The trail weaved back and forth across the water, but rocks in the creek let me hop across with dry feet. As I continued up and up, the vegetation changed from saguaro to alligator juniper, poppies to paintbrush. It’s so fun to read the elevation of the landscape in the plants that grow there.

The forecast called for afternoon thunderstorms, and I noticed the clouds building all morning. As the canyon ahead of me became more sinister gray than fluffy white, I decided to turn back. Shortly after, I felt a few raindrops. A couple of hikers still heading up canyon brushed past me, clearly unconcerned about the change in weather. I did not want to get stuck in this canyon in a thunderstorm, so I kept barreling downhill.

As I got closer and closer to the parking lot, I saw more and more people, not a single one reading those clouds the same way I did. Maybe the locals knew their weather patterns better than me. No matter, I stuck with my gut decision and headed out. I got two lovely rewards as a result: a coati butt sighting and open tuber anemones. The anemones had been closed earlier in the day, but they must have gotten enough sunshine to spread their petals wide by the time I returned.

The foreboding skies never evolved into a thunderstorm, so maybe I could have kept going. I’m still happy with the decision I made because I would have just been stressed out and not enjoying my time had I continued further up canyon. Plus, if the storm had materialized, I would have been screwed. Always strive to hike another day!

Trail work at Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge

March 7-11, 2024.

Photo album

When dreaming up this big 2-year road trip, I wanted to make service projects, specifically trail work, an essential part of our travels. What I didn’t realize way back then was the difficulty of lining up our route with trail projects, especially since we rarely knew where we’d be a week out from the present day. So when I saw an opportunity to register way in advance for a project in Southern Arizona during March, I jumped at it. I knew we’d be roughly in that area anyway and the weekend dates meant Aaron could participate, too.

Prologue: Arrivaca Creek

Aaron had to work the day of check-in, so we parked at a trailhead near the campsite and I took a hike that had been on my mind since December. While exploring the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge back then, we did a couple of short hikes we saw on the map. What wasn’t on the map: a trail extension to the top of a highpoint called El Cerro.

The forecast called for rain, so I got an early start. I hiked quickly to the junction I had seen before and continued up towards the mysterious highpoint. It was more green than it was a few months ago, but not nearly as lush as I hoped it would be. I saw a few purply onion flowers and some four-petaled yellow thingies and plenty of cactus. At least the sky was mostly blue.

A flash of fluffy white streaked across my field of vision: white-tailed deer. So white, so fluffy. I followed the trail as it took the most windy and non-intuitive route to the summit. It maintained its elevation for quite a while, leading me to a gorgeous tunnel of blooming ocotillo. If you’ve never seen ocotillo before, picture this: wiry limbs fanning up from a single point in the ground, as thick around as your thumb and taller than you, covered in spirals of small leaves and sharp thorns. At the top of each limb, a burst of orange-yellow flowers. As I walked underneath the scraggly stems, I admired the brightly colored blossoms over my head.

Just before the summit, the easy trail suddenly angled straight up and in a few minutes I was at the top. I plopped my stuff at the handmade bench and took in the view. Right before my eyes, the sky changed from a clear, cerulean blue to an ominous mass of gray storm clouds. I could tell they were moving quickly and straight in my direction.

I scarfed down my snack and headed down the hill. Was that thunder? I moved more quickly. And then: ping! ping! ping! Hail. At first, it wasn’t too bad. I had a light wind-shell on that repelled most of it. Then PINGPINGPING it started coming down more intensely. I giggled and walked as fast as I could without rolling an ankle or doing something stupid. By the time I got back to the van, I looked and felt like a drowned rat, but I felt good for getting out and closing that mystery chapter.

Meeting the team

After work, we rolled into the group camp. Almost everyone else was already there. The event was hosted by a truck-top camper company, so everyone was their with their special truck-top rigs except for us. We slinked to the back of the campground in our van, then joined them for dinner and an orientation.

I was surprised at just how large the group was. There must have been 25 or so people there. Most folks were retired or nearly so. Most were part-time travelers. And most, like us, were couples. They were from all over the country. We chatted with as many people as we could to get a sense of who we’d work with over the next couple of days.

Trail work

Our project took us to the trails just outside the visitor center, where we’d be doing erosion control. Water management, in the desert? You wouldn’t think that would be a big issue. But, as I just learned, when water falls in the desert, it falls hard and fast. And when it hits the dry soil, it funnels into the path of least resistance. In this case, it flowed down the trail.

Thus, our plan included strategically building rock structures that slowed down the flow of water on the trail. That, in turn, prevents the trail from being dug out by water during a heavy rain. A trail expert showed us where the problem areas were and taught us how to stack and align rocks to make the water move in a way that would preserve the trail surface. Armed with buckets, wheelbarrows, shovels and of course, big piles of rocks, we broke into teams and got to work.

The work was intense and the 70 year olds who signed up for some light trail brushing and trash cleanup got way more than they bargained for. But everyone gravitated towards the jobs they could do and took rest when they needed it. With so many hands on deck, we made quick work both days and ended ahead of schedule. I enjoyed learning new trail building skills and working on small teams with other people. It was more challenging than I thought it would be, especially the part where I had to line up certain size shapes and sizes of rocks like a puzzle; that broke my brain a little!

Final notes

Everyone on the project was friendly and had lots of great travel stories. That’s one huge benefit of signing up for a large project like this in advance. The coordinator even lined up two nights of catered dinners, which were delicious and free! Working hard never tasted so good. I got to use our lunch break on both days to do some painting, which was fun and also garnered some attention from other participants. I love sharing art in the field with curious onlookers and aspiring artists!

I wish I could find more opportunities to chip in as we travel. Alas, I will do my best to keep my eyes open. Perhaps when we are in Alaska with much more free time I can plan our route around interesting projects. If and when we return to a stationary lifestyle, I will immediately get on the local trail volunteer list and start giving back on a regular basis. Oh the irony of having so much time but not being able to put it to use as a nomad!

Skunked in the Organ Mountains

February 29, 2024.

9.7 mi. | 2650′ ele. gain | 6 hrs.

Photo album

In the spirit of Hike366, I knew I couldn’t miss hiking on leap day. It only comes around every four years, and even though I’d already done a hike on February 29 for my project, I was excited to get another one.

I scoured the map and reached out to a friend in the area to get some ideas for what I could do, without any technical gear and starting from a campsite. I settled on Nordspitz, which is a local name for one of the many blobs on the main ridgeline in the Organ Mountains. I’d been in the area once before and remember drooling over all the spires, faces and canyons in this impressive range. I packed for a full day.

When I left the parking lot, the mountains were so socked in with clouds I couldn’t see any terrain features in front of me. I hoped that the weather would clear in a few hours, so I put my head down and headed up the trail. The desert vegetation, glistening in the recent moisture, formed a beautiful backdrop for my hike. Cows grazed between the towering sotol and yucca.

Once I reached the saddle near Baylor Peak, it was quite windy and still very much still cloaked with clouds. I added my wind layer, scouted the start of my route and left the trail, walking uphill. Moving slowly, I picked my way through the cactus, thorny shrubs and loose rock. I paused at a large and beautiful colony of hedgehog cactus growing straight out of a bouldery face. There were so many different types of cactus, present in such large numbers, that the inclement weather didn’t even bother me. I was in cactus heaven.

There were a few rocky bumps along the ridge I had to decide whether to go left, right or over the top. I stuck to the ridge as best as I could, but there was one huge rock feature I could not get around. I stopped abruptly at the base of a large, wet slab that disappeared into the misty beyond. To either side of me, steep gullies dropped down into cactus- studded lowlands. I took a few tentative steps on to the slippery rock and decided I would go no further unless the weather cleared. The wind blowing ferociously, tugging at my precious heat, forced me to find shelter as I waited out the weather and made some plans.

I looked at the sky and saw dark, dense clouds that were nowhere close to blowing off. I had to admit defeat.

Cold, annoyed, frustrated and with wet feet, I began descending the ridge. It did not take long to get disoriented in this terrain in these conditions. Generally, ridgewalks are quite straightforward because you follow the highest points to your destination. But this ridge had enough obstacles and side arms that I found myself walking entirely in the wrong direction. I triple checked my mapping app, used my compass to confirm that I was indeed facing *toward* the mountain I was trying to descend, then found a place to get off my feet for several minutes. I needed a snack, some water and rest since I had been nearly in constant motion all day.

But I was in no good place to stop. And, I really wanted to start moving in the correct direction before sitting down. I fumbled back up to a spot I could turn around, then checked my direction of travel on my phone. Yes, that looked much better. I plopped down, put on every layer in my pack, pulled out a foil packet containing yesterday’s pizza and rested until my brain returned to normal.

When I continued moving, I forced myself to go slowly and look at my phone often. The visibility was so bad, I had almost no context clues to keep me oriented. I prefer using landmarks to help stay on route, but that wasn’t possible today. Once I got down low enough, I could see the trail and I let myself relax a little. But, it still took some effort to figure out how to get there without getting stabbed by a lechugilla or becoming entangled in a bush.

Back at the saddle, I took another rest break. At least the return hike was brainless from here. The weather remained cool and windy, although eventually I emerged from beneath the clouds. Just as the van came into view, I turned back and finally got to see the peaks that were hiding all day. They were gorgeous, yet menacing. Even from this angle I thought, “that looks like an intimidating route.” I felt completely justified in bailing. I’d never attempt it without knowing the route ahead of time and/or having excellent visibility. Dry rock would be a must, also.

I know that turning back is not a failure, but I recognize that it is still really difficult to make that call, even after decades of doing this. I like telling these stories as a reminder that things don’t always go as planned and that’s okay. Knowing when to alter the plan or abandon the plan are important skills for any hiker. I still had a really great hike and I am now armed with more ground-truthed information for next time!

Black Mesa

February 23, 2024.

9.2 mi. | 775′ ele.gain | 4:15 hr.

Photo album

We took a very specific detour on our loop around New Mexico to hit the highpoint of Oklahoma. I’m not a serious highpointer; in nearly twenty years of hiking, I’ve gotten six state highpoints. Those are: Mt. Katahdin (Maine), Mt. Washington (New Hampshire), Mt. Hood (Oregon), Humphrey’s Peak (Arizona), Guadalupe Peak (Texas), and now Black Mesa (Oklahoma). On this cross-country road trip, I thought it would be fun to find the highpoints in the midwest and in states that don’t have the same kinds of dramatic scenery that characterize the west.

As soon as I stepped onto the trail, I was smitten. Just like the places I visited in northern New Mexico, the landscape here brought me right back to Central Oregon. Rolling, grassy meadows. Volcanic buttes. Occasional junipers. Aah, it felt like home. The trail was very well built, with pergolas placed every half mile or so for people to get out of the sun. I was glad to be here in February, because summers must be brutally hot. Clearly, many people hike this trail because it’s a state highpoint. I usually don’t go out of my way to do popular hikes, but this felt like a silly one to pass up. I’m so glad I did.

There were little lomatiums that were so close to flowering, as well as some cute hedgehog cactus near the summit. I bet if I’d just waited another month, the landscape would have been even more spectacular. But as I’ve learned on this road trip, you just have to grab opportunities as they come. The trail gently followed the subtle ups and downs in the lowlands to the base of the mesa, then it rocketed straight up the side. Once above the cliffs and gullies, the trail flattened out again for the last mile or so. The tall obelisk marking the summit was visible for quite a ways away. I pushed through the wind, marker in sight, for many minutes until I was suddenly right on top of it.

My favorite part about reaching the top was seeing snow-capped peaks, clearly much higher, in the background. I assume these were just over the border in Colorado and New Mexico. I’d never felt so NOT on a highpoint while on a highpoint before. I took a left at the marker to walk to the edge of the mesa. There, on the edge of a basalt outcrop, I sat down to paint. I felt like I was on top of Sutton Mountain, one of my favorite places to wander back in Oregon.

I nearly had the whole place to myself. On the way up, I saw no one. Within a couple miles of the parking lot, I ran into two groups of two. I had a nice chat with one pair as they began their hike who asked if I was the one who signed in from Oregon. Yes, I said, and while they reported hailing from South Dakota, they had spent some time in Chemult, Oregon, of all places. It’s a small world.

Which highpoint is next? I’ll be traveling to Arkansas for the eclipse, so maybe there? Missouri? Then of course there are the really flat states like Kansas, Nebraska and Iowa that are parking lots in the middle of fields! The actual challenge of reaching the top doesn’t matter too much to me anymore, because I’ve learned that the journey is almost always better than the goal itself. I’ve had so many meaningful experiences and discoveries on a way to a thing. A list just helps me narrow down all the things I want to do, and a list often takes me to places I wouldn’t have chosen to visit otherwise. Without the list, I wouldn’t have known how incredible this corner of Oklahoma is.

One quick detour of note: on our drive back to New Mexico, we pulled off at a roadside attraction pinned on Google. It had no signage, but the Internet said that it’s a replica of a Brontosaurus femur. Was it worth the stop? I’m not sure. But, if it had truly been something spectacular, I would have hated to think, “should we have taken that 10 minute detour?”

Little Arsenic Springs

February 18, 2024.

3.8 mi. | 890′ ele. gain | 3:30 hr.

Photo album

On a recommendation from a friend, we took a small detour to the Wild Rivers Recreation Area. It was President’s Day weekend, so I was a little concerned that we’d have trouble avoiding crowds. And this place didn’t feel too far off the beaten path.

But when we arrived, we pulled into a campground with a beautiful view over a river gorge and there was only one other party there. We chose sites on different sides of the campground, and besides a friendly wave in passing, didn’t see or hear each other the whole night.

The next morning, we moved to the Little Arsenic Springs Campground to have direct access to the hiking trail. It was partly cloudy when we began our hike, but the clouds quickly moved in. The trail alternated from being snowy to being clear, and while we brought traction devices, we never needed to use them. At the low point of the trail, we came across a developed backcountry campsite that must be for rafters. There was a pit toilet and covered picnic area! We used the facilities, then found rocks to sit on near the river. I worked on a painting and Aaron drew in his sketchbook. It was very peaceful.

From there, we followed the trail as it meandered along the river, up to a plateau, then back to the top of the canyon. The entire time, I felt like I was back in Central Oregon. The curvy river, bound by lava rock. The ponderosa pine and juniper trees. The sagebrush fields. The familiar palette of ochres, blue-green, rusty browns. The views of snow-dusted mountains. Only the frequent cactus piles snapped me back to place. This is New Mexico.

On the last stretch of trail up to the top, I stopped to read all the little interpretive signs. I just really love a nature trail! I think about the time and effort put in to thinking about where to place the signs, which facts to highlight and how best to craft the text on the sign. It sounds like a challenging but fun job.

Once we reached the parking lot at the top, we followed one last trail to get back to camp. A thin layer of snow covered the ground here. The mountainsides all around us were also covered in snow. The views were breathtaking. This is a place I’d happily come back to.

Acoma-Zuni Trail

February 9, 2024.

8.7 miles | 225′ ele. gain| 5:15 hr.

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I was skeptical about making a stop at El Malpais National Monument, since I’ve had my fair share of hiking in volcanic terrain. How fun would this place be? I’m in Arizona, I want to see something new.

Lava landscape

After spending half a day on the Acoma-Zuni trail, I changed my mind completely. The trail follows an ancient path used by native people to traverse the lava flow from village to village. It’s marked mostly with rock cairns placed on top of the lava. Rock on rock can be deceptively challenging to follow, so it was a bit like going on an Easter egg hunt. But that’s what made it so much fun! I enjoyed scanning the terrain for the next trail marker, moving slowly so as not to get lost or disoriented on the difficult terrain.

In addition to the uneven rock and cracks in the lava, I also had to negotiate slippery snow patches and spiky catches. It was a real obstacle course! The sunshine helped cut through the bitterly cold air and breezes. It was quiet and peaceful as I crossed the flow from one side to the other.

Just before reaching my exit trailhead, where Aaron would pick me up, I took a small detour. A tiny hump called Encerrito was too close to skip. I scrambled up the side of the butte and, to my surprise, found a summit register on top. After signing in and having a snack, I found a nice place from which to do a watercolor painting of a beautiful mountain view. The whole area was so serene and idyllic, I could have stayed there forever. But, my ankles were glad to be done. The constant walking across tilted rocks became very tiring by the end of the hike!

And then…dogs

But the clouds had rolled in and now the air was bone-chilling cold. I finished the painting and hiked back down to the trailhead. On my way, I encountered three off-leash dogs barking and barreling down the trail right at me. I had no time to react. One of the dogs tried to bite me, leaving slobber all over my pant leg. I was furious, and all the owner had to say to me was “I didn’t think anyone would be on this trail.”

No apology. He could have stopped at saying “I didn’t think.” If you have three uncontrolled and aggressive dogs, you damn well better have them leashed or don’t take them out on a trail. It snapped me out of the joyous mood I was in and made me angry for the rest of the day. I don’t know how some dog owners can be so clueless when it comes to understanding that other people exist in the world and choose not to acknowledge how their dogs’ behavior impacts other people. I’ve had enough negative dog encounters that I know this was not a rare incident. One of many reasons I try really hard to go hiking where other people aren’t. I don’t trust them to be able to handle their dogs.

To the responsible dog owners, thank you. To the people who take the time to train their dogs, thank you. To the folks who leave their aggressive dogs at home when they go hiking, thank you. To the people who keep their dogs leashed when required, thank you. I always notice and appreciate when people take pro-social steps when going out with their dogs. Since I’m allergic to dogs, it’s also important to me that “friendly” dogs do not approach me. If you’re a dog lover, please keep this in mind: not everyone wants to or can interact with your dog. And I really don’t want to have to explain this to every person I meet on the trail.

Unfortunately, we only had one day in this park, so we had to move on. I’m glad I got to see what I did, and I’d be curious to return and check out some of the other hikes, caves and highpoints.

Pyramid Rock

February 7, 2024.

6 mi. | 1170′ ele. gain | 3:15 hr

Photo album

We pulled into Red Rock Park, New Mexico to camp the evening before. For those of you who are counting, this is our second park named Red Rock of this trip. (The first was back in California.) The drive in was breathtakingly beautiful. After checking in to our dire little spot for the night, we walked to the trailhead to catch a glimpse of the rock formations up close. They were pinstriped red, yellow, orange, with swaths of green vegetation below. I went to sleep dreaming of red rocks.

I awoke to nothing less than a winter wonderland. Overhead, the gray clouds sprinkled down snow on a white landscape. The forecast called for snow and wind all day, so I dressed for a winter hike, packed some hot ramen and planned to just hike as far as I could, my heart not set on reaching a destination. I had the route mapped to Pyramid Rock just in case the trails were good enough, but I’d be happy with just getting out for a lovely walk.

The footprints on the trail came to an end pretty close to the trailhead; it was clear I’d be the only one out and about today. The trail was pretty well marked. I traversed mud, gravel, slickrock and chunky rock surfaces. Some places were covered in snow, others were just wet. The steeper sections of slickrock had steps chopped into them, which I found immensely valuable today. I moved slowly and intentionally to avoid slipping and falling. Some of the sloped sections lay right above deep washes. I did not need to go for a ride today.

While the trails appeared deadly slippery, I found that I had excellent traction 99% of the time. I only slipped when I was moving too fast or not paying attention. After doing that a few times, I never lost traction again.

Cairns were placed along the trail to mark the way. There were signs, too. And for the most part the trail was well-marked. I tried to train my eyes to the cairns, which were sometimes difficult to see amidst the snow. Despite the trail markings, my map and my familiarity with trail finding, I lost the route a few times and wandered off track. The terrain was quite complex and the trail did not always follow the intuitive path. Upon realizing my errors, I made it back to the trail and scanned for cairns more closely. Undeterred by these short misadventures, I kept moving forward and eventually had Pyramid Rock in my sights.

I got a glorious sun break as I headed up the last stretch to the summit. I found a wind-sheltered spot behind a rock to set my pad down and enjoy a warm lunch. The sun remained bright for my entire rest break, so enjoyed panoramic views of the incredible landscape.

Based on the conditions and the fact that I would rather follow my steps back than break a new trail, I decided to return the way I came instead of making a loop. It was the right call. At some point during the hike down, the storm settled in for good and my sun went away. The wind blew consistently and the snow fell in earnest. I moved as quickly as I could without being reckless. I was grateful that my boots performed so well on the wet snow and rock. The downhill sections that I dreaded turned out to be not too bad and I made it back to the trailhead with no slips or stumbles.

I’m a firm believer that most weather can be endured with the right gear, attitude and preparation. Today was one of those days. And, it wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it might be. In fact, I found most of the hike quite enjoyable and remarkably beautiful. It was also very quiet, since most people do not share my approach to hiking in the snow! While I didn’t set any speed records, that wasn’t the point. I loved every moment of being out in red rock country during a winter storm, even those frustrating moments of getting sucked off route. It’s good when the universe reminds me that despite my experience, I always have something to learn, and that I should always be paying attention.

Petrified Forest National Park

February 3-5, 2024.

Photo album

Overlooking the north side of the park

We began our tour of this remote park at the north entrance, off old Rte. 66. Petrified Forest National Park had been on my radar on a previous trip to Northern Arizona, but it was just too far off our route to add the stop. This time, I made sure to prioritize it.

I spoke with a ranger about some of the places I wanted to visit and they offered me three printed packets with route descriptions for three “off the beaten path” routes. I’d never seen anything like that at a national park! I was encouraged to explore off trail, so I gladly leapt at the chance. I noticed “Onyx Bridge” on my map and read a little bit about it online. It was one of the three routes in my pile of packets, so we decided to drive to the Painted Desert Inn to begin this hike.

Onyx Bridge

It was super windy, so we layered up. I packed ramen and tea. We walked down the switchbacks from the parking lot into a maze of painted hills below. Then, we alternated following the social trail when it was visible to following the National Park Service directions (complete with photos!) from checkpoint to checkpoint. I thought it was a fun game, like a scavenger hunt.

We arrived at a wide wash that had some water from recent rains. The ranger warned that it may not be passable. As we approached it more closely, we were able to pick a route that avoided the small stream and shiny mud, and soon we were on the other side.

Water in the desert

The social trail now a loose memory, we roughly skirted the hills to our left in search of the canyon that we’d take to find the Onyx Bridge. This landmark earned its name because it is a blackened piece of petrified wood that used to span a small depression, resembling a bridge, before it broke into pieces. I thought it would still be cool to see.

We scrambled up a small canyon and topped out at the view of Onyx Bridge. Turns out, it was worth the walk. On the way there we stopped to admire other pieces of petrified wood dotting the badlands. And on our route back we saw even more. Not satisfied with a simple out-and-back, we chose a more creative way to return to the wash crossing. There, we enjoyed views of the incredible painted hills and stumbled into slices of mica (?) that glinted in the sunlight.

Onyx Bridge

Pro tip for visiting the Petrified Forest: there is no campground in the park. But, just outside the south entrance there’s a rock shop called Crystal Forest Museum and Gifts. They have free dry camping: no toilets, water or amenities besides a place to park and a picnic table. But the price is right!

Blue Mesa

The next day, we drove into the park as soon as the gate opened at 8 am. We parked near the visitor center to use the bathroom, then went back to the van to make breakfast. It’s like our own portable cafe! As we were getting ready to go, a group of travelers popped by to ask questions about our van. They were on a long road trip from Ohio and loved talking vans with Aaron. We swapped van tours, then went on our way. Not before exchanging contact information and receiving an invite to stay with them if we happen to pass through Cleveland (and they happen to be home!)

We drove to the trailhead for the old Blue Forest trail and I began hiking according to the handout I’d gotten from the ranger. Aaron stayed at the van to fix our water filter. I wanted to paint, so I found a nice spot near the top of the hills that had a view and a nice example of a petrified log. It was lovely to spend so much time immersed in that environment, surrounded by colors and sparkles and textures. I continued along the route, following a well-worn path on the tops of the painted hills. This was the first place I was allowed (and encouraged) to walk on these features. What a unique experience.

It’s not just blue at Blue Mesa

After descending the trail on the backside, I joined the crowds on the other side and hiked up to the road, where Aaron waited for me in a pull-out.

Off the beaten path

While there are only a handful of developed trails in the park, off-trail hiking is allowed here. I spent my final day in the park wandering among the hills and through the washes without any particular destination in mind. Since my hikes are typically dictated by where Aaron can park and work for the day, I’ve gotten pretty flexible about planning where to go. It’s quite freeing to let the landscape dictate the route, deciding in the moment whether to go left or right, up or down, based on what’s in front of me. Like a choose-your-own-adventure book.

It looked so easy…

I found another spot to paint and struggled through another landscape. It’s fascinating how the geography that looks like it’s actually painted in watercolor is the most difficult (for me) to paint in watercolor. Maybe someday, I’ll figure it out.

Nonetheless, I had a quiet, restorative hike.