April 18, 2026.
8 mi. | 2050′ ele. gain | 6 hr.
It had been nearly three months since I’d seen a mountain, so when I found a hike in Pennsylvania that promised 2000′ of elevation gain, I salivated at the thought of it. This was Big Mountain, located south of Cowan’s Gap State Park. When you look at a map of this region of the country, you’ll notice a series of curved, parallel lines that resemble the sand in a Japanese Zen garden. On the ground, these are alternating ridges and valleys that are part of the Appalachian Mountain range. Though they’re not “big” by Rocky Mountain standards, they’re notable for Pennsylvania.
I used SummitPost to find the most interesting route to this summit. Lucky for hikers, there are many trails in this region that offer a wide variety of experiences. I wanted the most elevation gain and bang for the buck, so I decided on the Charcoal Trail, with a bonus summit of the Hogback.
The small trailhead was up a short, steep, dirt access road where you’d be happy to have 4 wheel drive and high clearance for about 5 seconds. The van made it up no problem, and we hit the trail at 8:30 am. Soon, we were immersed in a beautiful forest full of spring greens and a plethora of wildflowers. As I stopped to examine each one, I met lots of interesting little bugs, too.
We climbed steadily, at a pretty comfortable incline, to the top of Hogback (1801′). It was deep in the trees; this was not a summit with a view. But, a few boulder piles at the top beckoned us over for a snack break, and we obliged. They were covered with all sorts of different lichens, including some big, sheety, flappy ones, which I’m sure have more technical descriptors (hopefully none of my readers are deep into lichenology). I was obsessed. Ever since stumbling across the Lichen Trail at Ledges State Park, I’ve been paying extra close attention to them. This is the problem, I’m learning, with being curious about nature. One thing leads to another, and before you know it you can barely get out of the parking lot because of all the weird stuff you’ve found.
I took lots of pictures of lichen in between bites of my snack bar. I also listened for birds. The day was already very hot and sweaty, so it was easy to find lots of reasons to just sit and relax.
But, we were only halfway there. After dropping down about 100′, we began the second ascent, which would cover a similar elevation gain in about half the distance. This felt evident immediately. Our pleasant woods-walk turned into more of a sweaty grind. Did I mention it was hot? Not only hot, but east coast humid. I’m not sure I’m well-adapted to that anymore.
As we made the final climb to the ridge, we popped out onto a road and walked over to a picnic table. Nearby, we could see a communication tower. I could hear the voices of people who simply drove up. All I wanted to do was take a seat at the table and shove more food in my face. It was an anti-climactic summit. Surely, people don’t drive up here for…this?
I checked my map and noticed a viewpoint just a tenth of a mile away. And there, it all made sense. We stepped onto a rock outcropping that was covered in graffiti and looked out over an expansive view. Below us I saw a glacially carved U-shaped valley, with curving ridges flanking either side. It was the topography I observed on the map, now clearly right in front of me. What a cool perspective!
I scrambled down a little bit to find a spot where I could sit and paint. Aaron found another rock where he read his book. We happily hung out there for an hour, just out of sight of the groups of loud tourists who kept rolling up to take a photo.
A curious and very shiny little skink sidled up to join us for a little bit, and a few birds soared on the thermals as I painted. A cooling breeze blew and some clouds rolled in to dampen the harsh sun. It was hard to believe it was only April!
The walk down was long, hot and quiet. We only ran into a couple other hikers all day. Overall, it was a pleasant hike and a cool way to experience the geographic features I’d been so curious about since I first saw them on Google satellite. I find that having the visual map layer on helps me narrow down where I want to explore in each state we travel through. I start with the image, then I begin looking for access points and trails, then I search for some write-ups. I’m sure everyone has their own system for figuring out where they’ll go hiking each weekend, and I’m always curious how people end up on the trails they do.
Big Mountain was a big success, and the first of hopefully many more Appalachian highpoints I’ll hit in the eastern US this spring.
