Category Archives: All Around the Steens

La Pine State Park

January 1, 2014.

We classed it up for the new year. On this last evening of our big road trip, we bedded down for the night in a yurt at La Pine State Park. It was glorious. A bed. A place to retreat indoors if we wanted to. With a table and stuff. Light. It was amazing. Felt like a four-star hotel.

The next morning, after breakfast tacos cooked on the camp stove, we took a short walk in the park. It was a bright and sunny, but cold, morning. A developed path led to a pretty overlook of a river bend. After being in such remote, desolate areas of the state, it felt downright urban to be here. There were cars and people and dogs. Cameras. Cell phones. Hints of civilization.

Any chance to stretch the legs on a long journey is a welcome opportunity. We’d driven an ungodly number of miles in the last week, and I was never looking forward to being in the car. Maybe I couldn’t appreciate the towering Ponderosa Pines, icy river and endless sunshine in this moment. But I think being out in it was still valuable to my soul.  It didn’t take long for nature’s luster to wear off and soon we were back in our cars to return home.

I will have to come back to La Pine State Park to give it another chance on a different day, with a different mindset, with time to explore. Maybe not as the last stop on a big trip 🙂

Diamond Craters

December 31, 2013.

Pete French Round Barn and Diamond Craters Auto Tour, plus touring by foot
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Photos from the entire trip are on Google+

Last night, we camped at Idlewild Campground north of Burns. We had to get to La Pine State Park tonight to settle down in our New Year’s Eve rental cabin, so our itinerary had to link these two locations in some way. I’d been to both Pete French Round Barn and Diamond Craters before, and I knew they would be worth taking the scenic route to get there.

We first stopped at the visitor’s center near Pete French Round Barn. It was just as I’d remembered: filled with gifts, cookbooks, western clothing, cold beverages and good, old fashioned hospitality. Here, we picked up our Diamond Craters Auto Tour Brochure for use later today.

Next, we checked out the round barn. It has been kept up well, and still stands rugged and strong in the middle of the unforgiving desert. We admired the craftsmanship of the wooden and stone structures, as well as the beauty of the design. This is an excellent little roadside attraction.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ecX6mQljNvM/UsTvX8x6cLI/AAAAAAAAWPU/xTQrxcTp0ik/s144-c-o/DSCN1811.JPG” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+JessBeauchemin/albums/5966772097720632625/5964155001276887218?partnerid=gplp0&pid=5964155001276887218&oid=109516212630889763066″ caption=”Pete French Round Barn” type=”image” alt=”DSCN1811.JPG” ]

Then, we pulled out the aforementioned brochure and drove towards Diamond Craters. At each designated stop, we pulled off the road, got out of the car, and I read the description aloud. It was like a fun, nerdy, motorized scavenger hunt. We learned some new vocabulary words, like graben, maar and tephra. It was really freaking cold outside, so we didn’t wander around at all of the stops. By the time we made it to #10, however, we were ready to stretch our legs.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-S_QDhDaYniM/UsTv1TpcVSI/AAAAAAAAWPU/jG9RyKGqG2g/s144-c-o/DSCN1826.JPG” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+JessBeauchemin/albums/5966772097720632625/5964155505631581474?partnerid=gplp0&pid=5964155505631581474&oid=109516212630889763066″ caption=”Trees break up the smooth skyline” type=”image” alt=”DSCN1826.JPG” ]

First we walked around Dry Maar and Malheur Maar, taking numerous pictures from every angle without realizing they’d pretty much all look the same once we got back home. Then we continued cross country to the best-named feature in the park: Multiple Explosion Crater. It was pretty big. All I wanted to do was run down inside it. This was the beginning of our foray through the lava features, walking through narrow cracks, balancing on pointy rock surfaces, peeking into caves and scrambling on top of rocky bumps. It was fun to adventure around, free from the confines of a trail, with a wide array of route options and volcanic features to investigate. This was a much more invigorating style of scavenger hunt.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-toxNUes1QVA/UtsPXAX7GUI/AAAAAAAAWPU/Qy4tGBVs01U/s144-c-o/crater%252520crouch.jpg” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?pid=5970382618921474370&oid=109516212630889763066″ alt=”crater crouch.jpg” pe2_single_image_size=”s600″ ]

When we finished having our fun, we meandered back towards the car and completed the driving loop. All that fun meant we’d be rolling into camp after dark, and that was okay with me.

We had a choice leaving Diamond Craters: head straight back to highway 20 via the quickest and most familiar route possible or take a longer detour through BLM land hoping to stumble across something cool. We chose the latter. It’s awfully nice to have a road trip partner who thinks the same way I do (most of the time).

The map pointed us to L-shaped Double O Road, heading west and then north through BLM land, Malheur Wildlife Refuge, and some private ranch land. Double O Road turned out to be gravel, but we took it anyways. Driving was slow but scenic, although there was nothing particularly special about the drive.

Or so we thought…

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TSm4sHecDRQ/UsTw0sxo30I/AAAAAAAAWPU/021p_Oj7MB4/s144-c-o/DSCN1858.JPG” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+JessBeauchemin/albums/5966772097720632625/5964156594708602690?partnerid=gplp0&pid=5964156594708602690&oid=109516212630889763066″ caption=”Wild horses?” type=”image” alt=”DSCN1858.JPG” ]

As we were on the home stretch to highway 20, we noticed some unfamiliar animal figures milling about on the sides of the road. We stopped and watched as (wild?) horses trotted, grazed and milled about just in front of the car. They were beautiful animals, curious, lively, and entertaining. We watched them for several minutes, then continued driving. Not ten minutes up the road Aaron spotted a huge herd of pronghorn on the east side of the road. One by one, their little ears perked up to the sky and all heads turned towards us. We watched them with delight and surprise. This was the most I’d ever seen at once before. We slowly crept up the road and kept our eyes on the leader of the pack. It looked like they were going to make a run for it and cross the street.

Caught ya:

It turned out the endless gravel road detour was totally worth it, although I can not guarantee repeat animal sightings in the future!

The rest of the afternoon and evening, we drove on to La Pine State Park. To celebrate the new year we cooked a ridiculously good steak and ramen noodle dinner, made fresh ice cream with an ice cream ball, drank sparkling apple cider and sank deep into sleep just after midnight—our first night in an actual bed in a week.

Another Eastern Oregon desert trip in the books. Will it ever get old? I don’t think so. I haven’t noticed an uptick in visitor density since I’ve been writing about my adventures out there, so I’m going to keep exploring, photographing and writing.

Continue reading about our eastern Oregon adventure here:

West Side of Steens Mountain
Pueblo Mountain
Borax Hot Springs
The Alvord Desert
Pike Creek Canyon
Mickey Hot Springs and Mann Lake

Mickey Hot Springs and Mann Lake

December 30, 2013.

Ramblin’ around at Mickey Hot Springs and Mann Lake (no trails)

Photos from the entire trip are on Google+

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Sullivan casually mentions Mickey Hot Springs in the yellow guidebook, and this sort of mystery grabbed my attention. Since we were all the way out here, I supposed, we may as well go see what there is to see.

Several gravel roads later, we arrived at Mickey Hot Springs. There was a tiny parking area, and a plethora of warning signs telling us that we were certain to die if we walked beyond the fence. Cameras in hand, we headed towards the steaming vents in the ground.

The place was eerie. There were no developed pathways so it was a total free-for-all. There were many footprints left in the earth, and I scanned for paths that had footprints heading in each direction. That way I hoped to minimize my chances of being swallowed up into the boiling cauldron lurking beneath my feet. Aaron was a bit more adventurous than me, and so I followed his footsteps.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2aa3jRc4Wl8/UsTuW-oDKoI/AAAAAAAAWN8/09fsdIDRHS8/s144-c-o/DSCN1782.JPG” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+JessBeauchemin/albums/5966772097720632625/5964153885080889986?partnerid=gplp0&sort=1&pid=5964153885080889986&oid=109516212630889763066″ caption=”White earth, white mountains and white skies” type=”image” alt=”DSCN1782.JPG” ]

The earth gurgled and simmered around us. There were pools of algae surrounded by crusty, white mineral formations. There were mounds that rose up and holes that sunk down. There were patches of matted, yellow grass. There was not an animal in sight.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ep0_0uANwmc/UsTuaYzx3cI/AAAAAAAAWN8/jGXcvFMG1T0/s144-c-o/DSCN1783.JPG” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+JessBeauchemin/albums/5966772097720632625/5964153943649017282?partnerid=gplp0&sort=1&pid=5964153943649017282&oid=109516212630889763066″ caption=”Steamy hot springs pools” type=”image” alt=”DSCN1783.JPG” ]

After wandering around for about 45 minutes, we called it and drove back up the road to have lunch. We had spied a dry lakebed nearby that looked like as good a place as any to refuel. Our boots sunk into the unusual soil as we headed off to find the perfect spot to perch on our camp chairs and make sandwiches. It was chilly, but the sun was out, and we rather enjoyed a quiet lunch in this desolate place.

Next stop: Mann Lake Recreation Area. Why? It was on the way to Crane, where we were going to soak in the hot springs before finding a place to camp. Mann Lake is located just off the main road heading out of the Steens. We pulled in and drove up to the lake, locating some short trails leading to the lake. The lake was clearly a favorite of the local cattle herd; the muddy ground was pitted with deep hoof-prints. We arrived at the lake to find it totally frozen over. It was actually easier to walk on the ice than on the pock-marked, muddy shoreline. In the right season, this would be a great place to see birds. In December, it felt abandoned.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-tMkvcC8t5es/UsTXIGnbz3I/AAAAAAAAWN8/781FnMUoey8/s144-c-o/IMG_20131230_150436.jpg” href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/+JessBeauchemin/albums/5966772097720632625/5964128340760317810?partnerid=gplp0&sort=1&pid=5964128340760317810&oid=109516212630889763066″ caption=”Sunshine over frozen Mann Lake” type=”image” alt=”IMG_20131230_150436.jpg” ]

When traveling along the eastern side of the Steens, it is worth it to take a couple of short detours to these places. There’s no reason to miss Mann Lake, since it’s a stone’s throw from the road. Mickey Hot Springs is a bit more of a drive, but maybe just stop and ask yourself: why the rush?

Continue reading about our eastern Oregon adventure here:

West Side of Steens Mountain
Pueblo Mountain
Borax Hot Springs
The Alvord Desert
Pike Creek Canyon
Diamond Craters