Category Archives: General

Random musings that do not belong anywhere else find a home here.

A hike in every state: Midwest pt 3

Iowa

Iowa, a land of endless corn fields and…what else? I had to go to find out. Here are some things you may not know about Iowa. It is bordered on the east and west by rivers: the Mississippi, Missouri and Big Sioux. A few notable natural lakes exist today and there was much more surface water in the past. Nearly 95% of the 4-6 million acres of wetlands have been drained to make way for agriculture. Loess hills in the west rise up from the flat prairies. The Driftless area in the northeast corner contains steep bluffs, mounds and exposed bedrock. Iowa’s cities are charming and walkable. Check the local chamber of commerce where you’re visiting for scavenger hunts, bingo cards and ice cream trails! Even the state highpoint is developed for visitors (though it is in a flat field). If you’ve never thought of Iowa as a hiking destination, think again and consider what unique experiences are on offer here.

Brent’s Trail: A hike on Brent’s Trail requires some stamina, time and a set of hiking poles! You’ll traverse the steep ups and downs of the Loess Hills on this one-way trek. Along the way you’ll see quintessential farm views, quiet forests, open prairies and interesting rocks. Keep your eyes and ears open to observe some of the hundreds of bird species that call this place home. And learn about the man behind the trail who had a vision to share his love of these unusual Iowa hills with others.

Illinois

Chicago is a walker’s paradise, but there’s oh-so-much-more to see in the Land of Lincoln. Illinois boasts 63 state parks, 8 national wildlife refuges and many city parks, trails and other open spaces. Aside from hiking, you can canoe, swim, rock climb, ride horses and view wildlife. Like Iowa, the geography is strongly influenced by its rivers and its history of agricultural use. Though it is called the Prairie State, less than 1% of its original prairie lands remain. To get a sense of what today’s Illinois is all about, be sure to sample a few different parks and trails in different parts of the state.

Starved Rock State Park: I had no idea what I was getting into during my visit to Starved Rock. What I found was wonder and beauty around every corner. Even in the “off” season, this was a beautiful place to visit. Trails loop through canyons and along rivers, up into the forest and over creeks. It made me feel like just a tiny piece of the west was transported across the Mississippi River.

Indiana

Indiana, the Hoosier State, though no one knows why. It’s also a big agricultural state, with soybeans and corn far outpacing the acreage of all the other crops. It’s a long state, so the terrain and climate change quite a bit as you travel from north to south. It is generally pretty flat with some rolling hills, plus some deep river valleys and sand dunes that can reach 200 feet in height. As the glaciers receded in the last ice age, they left behind hundreds of little kettle lakes in the northern side. Whereas the limestone in the south is pockmarked with caves and springs. There’s plenty for the outdoor explorer in Indiana!

Turkey Run State Park: If you love obstacle courses, you’ll love Turkey Run state park! If you don’t, you’ll still love it because all the adventurous trails are optional. The trails here take you to historic sites, riverside views and exciting canyons. There is also a campground, nature center, swimming pool and playground. In addition to turkeys, watch out for woodpeckers, bald eagles, warblers and other songbirds. It is also close to Shades State Park and other natural areas in case it leaves you hungry for more.

Ohio

The Ledges at Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

Would you believe that Ohio is the seventh most populous state in the U.S.? You’ll have to work to get off the beaten path here, but fortunately there are some incredible natural spaces that have been preserved for locals and visitors alike to escape urban sprawl. In addition to Cuyahoga National Park, there are 76 state parks with activities for all seasons and all interests. As with the rest of the Midwest, much of the terrain is flat, but it does have some notable exceptions like Platte Park Gorge and Tar Hollow State Park. Arrive with curiosity and you’ll find Ohio has many surprises to share with you.

Aullwood Audubon Center: I can’t resist a troll exhibit, so that’s what brought me to this park. But even without it, Aullwood Garden provides a wonderful breath of fresh air amid the cities and towns of the Dayton Metro area. Come here for birds, plants, serenity, public art or all of the above. Check out the events calendar for activities, hikes and family programs. It’s a place you’d want to have a membership to if you lived in the area so you could pop in any time and see what’s new in the garden. If it’s not in your neighborhood, take this as a reminder to become a member at a local garden or park where you live!

A hike in every state: Midwest pt 2

South Dakota

You may know South Dakota as the home of Mt. Rushmore and that big rock that was in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. Or, maybe you’ve never thought once about South Dakota. That’s too bad, because there’s much to see and do here. Most of the state is relatively flat, but the Black Hills bring elevations of up to 4,000′ to the far western side of the state. On my first trek across the rolling plains of South Dakota, I stopped at the much anticipated Wall Drug and paused to look at the Badlands during a wild thunderstorm. Those are also worthy points of interest. But for the featured hike, we explore one of South Dakota’s 13 state parks that you might never have heard of.

Palisades State Park: A geological marvel located northeast of Sioux Falls, this park features 1.5 billion year old quartzite and the appropriately named Split Rock Creek. There are only a few miles of trails here, but it’s still a worthy hiking destination. If you’re interested in rocks, plants, animals, rivers or history, you’ll appreciate wandering around this little gem.

Nebraska

The Cornhusker State may be known for its agriculture and football, but it’s also a place to enjoy outdoor activities. It’s only got two types of land regions: the Dissected Till Plains and the Great Plains, so it’s flat. The highpoint is a drive-up site on a bison farm (with an entry fee). There are some parks and preserves, but the standout hike for me can be found in the state capital. I think one of the best ways to get to know a new place, whether it’s urban, rural or wilderness, is to take a long walk.

Omaha city walk: Get a different perspective on this Midwestern state by walking through the vibrant city of Omaha. I enjoyed discovering the neighborhoods, parks and public spaces on foot. It’s certainly preferable to driving through this perpetually-under-construction city, which appeared to be in the throes of growing pains during our visit. I found one of my favorite city parks ever here, so I think you should go check it out.

Kansas

I know two people from Kansas and neither of them prepared me for how much I’d love exploring here. Outside of the endless amber waves of grain, you’ll find rare plants, geological wonders, lovely small towns and a state highpoint. Yes, the state highpoint is in a corn field. But what stood out to me the most is a site that protects one of the most endangered ecosystems in North America: the tallgrass prairie.

Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve: Visit an endangered ecosystem right in America’s heartland. See bison roaming free in the fields. Take a walk through the visitor center and learn way more about grasses than you ever thought you needed to know, and learn that they’re actually quite interesting. If you dare visit in the middle of winter, like we did, be sure to read my write up so you know what to expect. I’d love to go back in late summer or early fall to see the prairie at its most beautiful.

Missouri

Missouri shares borders with eight states and lies at a crossroads of east, west, north and south. Here you’ll find the Ozarks Mountains, Loess Hills, landscapes scoured by glaciers and karst topography with sinkholes and caves. Though it has no ocean front property, it is a place carved by water, notably the Mississippi, Missouri and Ohio Rivers. Outdoorspeople visit Missouri to camp, hunt and fish. They hike, bike and canoe. In the winter, bald eagles congregate on the rivers and snow geese come by the millions. It has 93 state parks and historic sites, several national historic trails, one national scenic riverway and Gateway Arch Natonal Park.

Ozark Trail to Taum Sauk Mountain: The Missouri state highpoint is only a quarter mile walk from the parking area, but it’s as many miles as you want it to be if you start somewhere else! When planning my visit, I noticed the Ozark Trail system nearby, which includes 430 miles of trail. I carefully selected a 20-mile one-way route that included the highpoint and many other features in the surrounding area. With Aaron as my trail shuttle, I packed up for a big day and had the time of my life exploring the Missouri backcountry. My only regret is that I couldn’t do more.

A hike in every state: Midwest pt 1

North Dakota

Much of North Dakota is part of the great plains, flat and expansive. In the southwest corner of the state, you’ll find some badlands formations rising from the wheat and oil fields. The state may not be a hiker’s paradise, but the highpoint is definitely worth a visit. Other interesting historical and natural sites include Theodore Roosevelt National Park, the Maah Daah Hey Trail and the International Peace Garden. And what trip to North Dakota is complete without a scenic drive straight across the state from east to west (or vice versa)? That way you’ll get the full experience of small town cafes, quirky roadside attractions and long hours of audio books! If you’re working on your 50 states and you haven’t been here yet, just wait! If you “save the best for last,” you can join the club and get the free t-shirt 🙂

White Butte: On my quest to get as many state highpoints as physically and logistically possible, White Butte was high on my list. It is located in rural, southwestern North Dakota (what isn’t rural in ND?) and lies on private property. The property owner has graciously allowed public access with a parking lot, marked trail and donation box. The Highpointers Club has done an amazing job of promoting and improving access to all 50 state highpoints. Anyone who’s interested in anywhere from one to 50 highpoints can legally get to the top! I enjoyed the beautiful scenery on this hike and the feeling of solitude. If you run into anyone out there, they are likely to be working on the list, so make sure you can recite which number you’re on when you meet them! This hike is one of the easier “summits,” at only 1.8 miles and 340′ elevation gain round trip, so be sure to put this on your North Dakota to-do list.

Minnesota

The state motto of Minnesota is “Land of 10,000 lakes” and that’s no joke; there are over 11,000 lakes in this northern state. It also borders Lake Superior, the largest of the great lakes. Being on Lake Superior feels like being on the ocean, the body of water is that vast. Minnesota also contains the head of the Mississippi River, so it is a land shaped and defined by water. That being said, there’s lots of great hiking among the forests and waterways in this beautiful state. The Boundary Waters Wilderness area, plus national forests, numerous state parks and wildlife comprise millions of acres of land to explore by foot, bike, canoe, snowmobile and more. When planning a visit to Minnesota, carefully consider the time of year. You may need to pack bug spray, snowshoes, rain gear or other seasonally appropriate items.

Artist’s Point and Grand Marais Lighthouse: Grand Marais is a cute little town right on Lake Superior that feels like any beach town I’ve been to on the east or west coast. But wait, this one’s on a lake! I really enjoyed the short walk out to the lighthouse on a small concrete jetty with waves crashing right below my feet. The adjoining trails exploring the area around Artist Point made for a lovely introduction to this area. I’d imagine this place is crawling with tourists in the summer, but our off-season visit meant quiet trails, immediate restaurant seating and a peaceful atmosphere. It’s not the most rugged wilderness hike, but it was one of my highlights in visiting Minnesota.

Wisconsin

Wisconsin! It’s got forests, lakes, sand dunes, waterfalls…or so I’ve heard. Well, this is embarrassing. During our brief visit to Wisconsin, we didn’t do any hiking. In accordance with the rules I set for this blog series, I cannot, therefore, recommend a hike from this state (yet). That means I’ll go out of my way to take a hike in Wisconsin as we travel west from Newfoundland this fall. Got any recommendations? Please send them my way.

TO BE UPDATED NOVEMBER 20206.

Michigan

When you visit Michigan, you get two states in one: the Upper Peninsula (the UP) and the Lower Peninsula (the mitten). We only had time for one, so we visited the UP where my friend lives. Michigan is pretty flat, so you won’t find any mountains to climb. However you will find lakes, rivers, sand dunes and dense forest. It borders 4 of the Great Lakes, and as a result it has more lighthouses than any other state! Like Minnesota, it also has over 10,000 lakes so I wonder if there’s any beef between the states over the motto. Michigan boasts 3 National Park sites, plus tons of other national and state protected land. What are you waiting for! Consider this your invitation to go explore Michigan.

Chapel Loop: Located in the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, the Chapel Loop provides an excellent introduction to this spectacular landscape. Whether you visit for spring flowers, summer swims, fall colors or winter cross country skiing, you’re going to have a great time. I was astonished by the turquoise, tropical-looking water as seen from the sandstone cliffs. It’s a landscape that will break your brain. The loop is 10 miles, so it’s worth packing for a full day of walking with time for scenery stops. Pack a lunch, pack a book, pack a nap blanket. Savor the time you have in this special place.

There will be two more blog posts to round out the Midwest, coming soon! Stay tuned to find great hiking experiences in the rest of the area that are not to be missed.

Jessb.org

Photos and blogs about hiking, art, and wildflowers