Category Archives: Climbing

Eagle Mountain #2

November 2, 2025.

Approaching Eagle Mountain #2

Photo album

I am very unseriously working on the Sierra Club Desert Peaks Section list, which includes scrambles across the desert southwest. If I happen to be in the area and something looks do-able for the time and energy I have, then I’ll give it a go. One of my peakbagger pals on Instagram recommended this as one of her favorites, so I looked it up. It was a short detour from Death Valley National Park and it looked like about a half-day effort, so I convinced Aaron to join me.

When we arrived at the GPS pin for the remote parking area, we were shocked to see about 10 cars parked there. What are the chances?! There’s no trail, no major town nearby, no signs, no reason for this many people to converge at this exact moment. Except…the Sierra Club. I saw several people getting their bags ready to go. Aaron and I looked at each other with the same idea: we’ve got to start hiking NOW!

There is almost nothing worse in the mountains than getting stuck behind a motley crew of 12 hikers. With an organized group, you can assume there are several novices in the mix. People who have less spatial awareness and who are good at kicking down rocks and gumming up the works (how do I know, that was me once!). We raced out of there.

Cottontop cactus

Fortunately, the route begins by crossing a remarkably compact surface with just a slight incline. We got to the base of the mountain quickly. With over 2000′ of prominence, Eagle Mountain rises boldly from the vast desert floor. I’d read that the route is not intuitive and can be hard to find, so I downloaded a GPS track ahead of time. Between the cairns on the ground and the track on my phone, we were able to stay on route most of the time. It sure was tricky! The mountain is a steep jumble of rocks, studded with cactus and interrupted with deceptive gullies and cliffs. It was like negotiating a vertical labyrinth.

How many cairns do you see?

We scrambled over the steep, loose and sharp rocks to the base of the summit pinnacle. I’d also read about bringing gloves for this climb online, and I’m really glad we did. Our hands would have been shredded at this point otherwise. As much as I love the mystery of adventuring, for these more technical routes I like to do my homework!

Below the summit block, we dropped our backpacks and assessed the route. I expected a few minutes of class 3 scrambling to the top. This is what I had described to Aaron and what he’d agreed to. However, we found it was a little longer and a little airier than expected. Between the two of us talking each other through the hard parts and the disappointing false summits, we figured out the crux of the route and found ourselves both standing at the top before too long.

Summit

The summit victory was brief. Knowing there were twelve people coming up the mountain behind us, we took a few pictures then immediately began downclimbing. I HATE downclimbing, so this felt harder to me than going up. I guess that’s one benefit of going in a pair: Aaron struggled more on the way up and I struggled more on the way down. But with both our superpowers together, we made it happen.

Aaron disappears down the mountain

As we took the last step down to the landing where our backpacks sat, the first Sierra Club hiker arrived. What timing! I cannot imagine the stress of getting that big of a group up and down that section without any major freakouts or missteps. But, it wasn’t my problem, so we got right out of there!

Slowly, we worked our way back down the mountain. We were careful to choose our steps due to the steep, loose rocks. This is where it’s really easy to make mistakes. We knew that group was going to take a while to finish the summit climb so I wasn’t worried about them catching up to us on the way down.

So many cool rocks

By the time we made it back to the van, we were more than ready for lunch! We drove into Pahrump and had an incredible meal at one of the Mexican restaurants. Happy to add this one to my list and I hope to find another fun, challenging scramble soon.

Post-climb refuel

Boundary Peak

October 9, 2025.

Moonlight

Photo album

Boundary Peak (13,147′) is the official state highpoint of Nevada. It’s not the highest mountain in Nevada, since it is technically a subsummit of Montgomery Peak (13,445′), whose summit is across the border in California. Technically, Wheeler Peak (13,063′) is the highest mountain in Nevada and quite a well-deserving highpoint at that. But to the folks seeking the 50 state highpoints, Boundary is the one to get. I am very casually working that list, so I thought it would be a fun challenge. I know I’ll never climb Denali and likely not Whitney or Rainier (because permits), so I’m not planning to finish. But when my travels take me close to a peak within my skill and interest levels, I add it to my personal to-do list.

And so I found myself waking up at 5 am to a cell phone alarm blaring in my ear. I planned on a 6 am start time so I’d get the best weather window and the most daylight to complete the hike. We’d parked overnight at the Trail Canyon trailhead so all I needed to do was make a nice breakfast, grab my backpack and go.

Sun rays

I began walking by headlamp, but I soon switched it off. I walked headlong into the falling moon as the sun rose behind me. I was enchanted by the ever changing light and color on the hills. After an hour, it was bright enough for me to get a good look at the environment around me. The dense brush along the gently flowing creek began to thin out a bit and the depth of the basin I was in became more clear. I walked to the end of the trail and continued through a gap in the willows to a saddle. I had read online that this is the point that most people bear left onto the descent path and climb up the loose scree towards the summit. I made a note of that and instead made my own way up the relentlessly steep drainage.

Climbing steep hills at high elevations is exhausting stuff. I stopped very often to catch my breath and to pick my next move through the trees. Once at the saddle, I picked up a trail again and climbed up the rocky ridgeline. Gleefully I noticed some alpine gold plants with closed up flowers, breathing life onto the gray expanse.

The unofficial trail

As I reached my first real view towards the summit of Boundary Peak, I began to feel the seriousness of the wind. It felt like it was coming from every direction and there was no escaping it. I hoped my early start would protect me from the worst of it, but I was wrong. Feeling uncertain of a successful climb, I decided to start with an easier target: Hosebag Peak. [Side note: how the heck did this peak get this name? Is it like Camelbak: hosebag as Kleenex: tissue? Discuss.] This was a subsummit of a subsummit, so nothing too special. But it looked safe and straightforward enough. If I couldn’t get to Boundary, I’d get to the top of something. From the top of that, I could regroup and decide whether or not to continue.

Well, the joke was on me. I turned the corner to the “quick and easy” ridge walk to the top of Hosebag and it was like the wind turned up to eleven. I literally had to crawl the last bit to the top. Since it was pretty broad at that point, there was no danger of me falling down the mountain, but I did feel like I could get knocked off my feet with every gust.

At the summit, I did a thorough assessment of the situation. I’d given up on any chance of climbing all the way to Montgomery. I knew the route to Boundary lay to the right side of the ridge, which felt more sheltered from the wind. But there was another obstacle: a thin layer of fresh snow. It was going to be more difficult to find a trail, plus the snow obscures gaps between rocks and makes everything more slippery. So, raging wind or snowy ankle traps…which would I prefer?

Ultimately, I decided to continue on the route to check it out, reserving the right to turn back at any time.

See the snow-covered trail? That quickly vanishes.

Walking on the snow-covered talus was extremely tedious. My feet got cold and eventually wet. I plodded along at a snail’s pace because I could not afford to make any mistakes. But the shoulder of the mountain protected me from the worst wind here. Patiently, I worked my way up to the final push: a sun-baked, wind-blasted ridgeline made of huge boulders. I used my mittened-hands and hiking poles to pick a route to the top. And, voila! I made it!

Summit ammo can. IYKYK.

As soon as I signed the register, a man and a dog poked their heads onto the small summit block. We tried yelling at each other over the wind, and I learned that he chatted with my husband on the trailhead before heading up. Aaron had told him about my dog allergy so he very kindly kept his dog under control and away from me. He also let me know that he had come up the descent route and said it was awful, so he recommended getting off the summit ridge earlier and making a big diagonal down into the basin. I wanted to ask more specifics about what exactly he didn’t like about the route but shouting over the wind was difficult. I thanked him and tried to follow his advice.

Trying not to get blown off the mountain

What I realized in hindsight that he probably didn’t like the loose scree, which would have been fine on the way down.

So that meant I had to descend an extra crappy route on mixed talus, scree and sand. There were some very steep sections that I could barely see what my next step would be and I cursed myself for listening to that guy instead of sticking to the research I’d done. Plus, the whole time I was nervous about that guy and his dog descending after me, kicking down rocks. What’s mountaineering anyway if you don’t make at least one mistake?

So, after completing yet another extremely tedious section of the route, I found myself a nice resting spot beneath a tree at the foot of the headwall. That gave me some wind protection and a comfy place to eat some food. The other climber leapfrogged ahead of me and was out of there before I finished my lavish break time.

So this is what I’d missed before

The remainder of the hike was fairly uneventful until I reached the section that I’d done under cover of night. Now, in the full daylight I was able to see what I’d missed earlier. Turns out, lots of colorful fall foliage and a handful of blooming lupine! It’s so magical to get a bonus treat at the end of an out-and-back hike.

Lupine

While it’s a bummer I didn’t get to tack on Montgomery this time, I doubt there will be a next time. This peak is way out of the way of anything and there are too many other fun things to do in this life. So, I was glad to have had a date with Boundary Peak but this is a one and done for me.

South Rabbit Ear attempt #2

March 31, 2025.

The Organ Mountains

Photo album

In 2019, Aaron and I attempted to climb the South Rabbit Ear in New Mexico’s Organ Mountains. It was late November and we were turned back by ice and snow. Since we were in the area during springtime, I thought, we had a second chance.

We began the approach at 8:30 am and followed the user trail past the mine. I remembered that we left the trail earlier than we should have on our first attempt and got mired in all the poky desert plants. This time, we stayed on the trail right into the canyon and made excellent time (with far less clothing catching on thorns). By this time, the sun had already risen above the peaks on the horizon, but we found some shade and much more bearable temperatures within the canyon walls.

Mexican buckeye

We moved slowly up the steep, rocky canyon, avoiding the spines, thorns, prickles and other hazards. The one thing we didn’t have to worry about was ice. There wasn’t even a drop of water in the canyon. I enjoyed seeing the living desert: hedgehog cacti, buckeye, cholla, sotol, lichens. Greens, purples, yellows and oranges disrupted the general backdrop of brown. This is a luxury we did not have last time we visited.

The rock arch at the saddle

At long last, we reached the saddle below South Rabbit Ear. We were only 200 vertical feet from the top! This is farther than we got last time; we had to give up partway up the hill leading up to the saddle. We took off our packs and savored a rest. We were pretty beat from the arduous climb to this point. I ate a snack bar and wandered around, looking for a way up. I had read the route description and pored over the map hundreds of times. This part shouldn’t be that bad. We made one attempt, backtracked, then tried a different route. All the little chimneys were strewn with loose rock or covered with moss. It was a bust. The risk/reward calculation just didn’t pencil out. The wind kept blowing stronger and stronger as the day wore on. I knew our attempt was over.

Turnaround point

Frustrated, but confident I made the right decision, we started back down the way we came. We chose slightly different routes just to avoid kicking rocks down on each other. We were feeling sluggish, so it took us quite a while to get back down. By the time we reached the exposed desert out of the canyon, the heat was practically unbearable. I had to remind myself it was only March! As predicted, the wind continued to pick up. I knew tomorrow it would be completely untenable to be in the mountains, so today was our only chance.

When we got back to the van, totally wiped, I searched online for anywhere that had frozen treats and quick service. I found Zeebs, a place that boasted having fruit ice, burgers and fries. That sounded like exactly the kind of well-rounded, post-adventure dinner we needed. The fruit ice servings were ginormous and totally hit the spot!

Never a bad day in the mountains

Will there be a third attempt? Only if I find someone who knows the route who will take us. There is plenty left on my to do list that I do not need to come back for another try.