Category Archives: Arizona

A hike in every state: Mountain West pt 2

Approaching the Flatiron, Arizona

Arizona | New Mexico | Utah | Colorado

When I started writing this series, I thought it would be a pretty breezy assignment. But I’ve been really racking my brain to pick only ONE hike per state, especially in the states where I’ve done a ton of hiking. Out of this bunch of 4, Arizona is surely the one holding me up. While I hope to do a lot more exploring in each of these states, the recommendations below come from personal experiences I’ve had over the past decades. Let’s get into it!

Arizona

Looking off the backside of Picacho Peak

Arizona contains multitudes. It’s got high elevation ponderosa pine forests around Flagstaff and Prescott. It contains the fifth largest city in the US (Phoenix). There are “sky islands,” or mountains that rise so dramatically and singularly above the surrounding landscape that they contain unique flora and fauna different from what’s below. While there’s not a ton of water in Arizona today, it contains two of the largest canyons in the United States, the Grand Canyon and Antelope Canyon. At the border with Mexico, there are truly spectacular habitats containing rare and endemic organisms, including the unusual organ pipe cactus. Each of its four corners contains part of a completely different desert. If there’s something you’re looking for in an outing, you’re likely guaranteed to find it in Arizona.

Picacho Peak: Before selecting this hike, I read through the first “top 20 hikes in Arizona” lists to make sure it wasn’t on there. To my surprise, it was not. This is likely due to the fact that the most popular hikes are: in and around the Grand Canyon, near Sedona or around the Phoenix area. This super unique hike, located right between Phoenix and Tucson, somehow slipped through the influencers’ grasp. The trek up Picacho Peak is not for the faint of heart, but it is one you’ll always remember. The main trail to the summit is short, but steep. In just 1.6 miles, you climb 1800 vertical feet! Parts of the trail are so steep there are cables and hand rails. Read the blog for tips on preparing for this super fun adventure!

New Mexico

The indescribable Carlsbad Caverns

Ah, the Land of Enchantment. In New Mexico, you’ll find Native American culture past, present and future. There are hot springs and caves. Mountains and deserts. Wind, and lots of it. Fine art and wacky desert-inspired creations. Incredible food, to boot! There’s also plenty of hiking to be done in New Mexico. Here, you’ll find several state parks, 19 NPS sites, a chunk of the Continental Divide Trail and a number of multi-use trails. Nearly half of the state’s land is public. With so many spectacular mountain ranges, forests, cultural sites and remote wildernesses to choose from, it’s hard to plan just one trip to this magical state.

Carlsbad Caverns: Let me start by saying I’m generally not that into caves. But Carlsbad Caverns changed me. It is such a vast, beautiful and mysterious space, you might have a spiritual awakening down there. When I think of New Mexico, I think of the time I spent at Carlsbad. And there is truly something for everyone there. You can take the elevator down to the “Big Room” and walk in a giant, cathedral-like space with lights and walkways and a gift shop at the end. You can sign up for an adventurous guided ranger tour where they loan you a helmet and knee pads and make you squeeze through a practice tunnel to make sure you won’t freak out in the secret passageways they’re about to lead you to. Or, you can visit on a summer evening to see clouds of bats erupting from the mouth of the cave. Everyone should visit this park at least once!

Utah

Entering the Narrows in Lower Muley Twist Canyon

Utah is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. Its otherworldly orange rock formations, dramatic snow capped mountain ranges and seemingly endless array of parks and trails can provide you with entertainment for a lifetime. Besides hiking, you can ski, mountain bike, rock climb, go canyoneering, flyfish and much more. Utah has the “Mighty 5” National Parks, plus 44 state parks and 5 national forests. I have only taken a few trips to Utah, and each one was so different from the one before. Personally, I find the off-trail hiking in the vast deserts and canyons my favorites. But, I generally don’t write detailed descriptions of those. Instead, here’s a known hike you can take as far as you’d like in one of Utah’s stunning and remote canyons.

Lower Muley Twist: If a 15-mile hike in scorching desert sun isn’t for you, the drive to the trailhead is an equally worthy adventure. Access this route via the Burr Trail, an incredible feat of engineering that lets today’s travelers cross steep mountains by means of tight switchbacks. You’ll see mountains and landscapes that are an artist’s dream. Before attempting this drive (or hike) be sure to stop by the ranger station to ask about up-to-date conditions and to get a weather forecast. Hiking the canyon puts you in an otherworldly place where you can feel quite a bit of solitude despite being in a National Park. You won’t find the crowds here like you will at the pie shop.

Colorado

Mountain views at Garden of the Gods

Colorado is a popular place to go hiking, especially for people who love mountains. There are 58 peaks on the list and you can view them all at 14ers.com. If you like challenging highpoints and lots of people on the trail, this is the list for you! There is a somewhat quieter list of 13ers and, for most people, everything else NOT on the list is just as wonderful to explore. The Rocky Mountains cut right down the state from north to south. On the west side, you’ll find a mixture of forests, canyons, secondary mountains ranges and mesas. To the east, Colorado is flat as a pancake and is primarily ranch land with a few grassland preserves. Even the big cities have set aside urban parkland and hiking trails that would rival state and national parks in other places. No matter where you end up in Colorado, you’re sure to find an interesting place to explore. I have only done a handful of hikes in Colorado, so it was somewhat easy to choose a hike from this state of endless possibilities.

Garden of the Gods: (trip report from 2012) Even if you’re never been to Colorado, you’ve probably heard of this place. Does that make it a strange choice for me here? Perhaps. But hear me out. Garden of the Gods offers something for everybody. There are paved, accessible trails and lots of places to pull over and hop out of the car for a quick photo. In addition, you’ll find over 20 miles of interconnected trails where you can find quiet places away from the crowds. And there are crowds. This place is extremely popular for good reason. My best advice is to arrive early in order to get a parking space and have a bit of piece and quiet. You’re also likely to see wildlife in the morning (we saw bighorns crossing the road!). While admiring the gorgeous red rock towers, you’ll also get excellent views of the Rocky Mountains beyond. It’s a place at a great crossroads between north and south, east and west, urban and wilderness. Check out all this place has to offer on their website to help plan your visit.

I would love to go back to each of these states to expand my knowledge and experience in this rich and diverse part of the country, especially Colorado. But, there’s never enough time to visit all the places on my wish-list! I’m curious to hear what your favorite places are in each of these states. Feel free to share in the comments, or send me a message with recommendations!

Sclerocactus growing in otherwise barren desert soil in Utah

Pass Mountain Traverse

December 30, 2025.

6.2 mi. | 1610′ ele. gain | 3:30 hr.

The cliffs of Pass Mountain

Photo album

If you want to go hiking in the Phoenix area, you’ve got to get up early to grab a parking spot. Hiking is a popular activity, and despite there being lots of parks and trails, the popular ones go fast. I paid my entrance fee at Usery Mountain Regional Park and slid into the last parking spot at the Wind Cave trailhead lot.

Using a recommendation from local hiker, I planned to hike to the south summit of Pass Mountain and then decide if I wanted to go for the unofficial traverse route to the north summit and loop down. The forecast predicted strong winds, and since the route looked pretty scrambly and exposed, I wondered how much fun it would be in those conditions. I figured I’d play it by ear.

It was immediately clear that the trail to Wind Cave was the most popular in the park. Plenty of folks were already on the way back down as I began hiking up. I took my time and became acquainted with the mountain. The sheer cliffs stretched below the whole ridgeline; I had to either choose the out-and back route or complete the entire ridge. There were no bail-out options that I could see.

Rocks and flowers up near Wind Cave

Once I reached the “Wind Cave,” where most people turn around, I continued up. A series of spray-painted marks signaled the easiest way to the summit. I climbed up the rocks to the summit overlook and enjoyed the views of the sprawling city. The wind was strong, but maybe I could just start the traverse and see how it felt. The trouble with reading route reports from strangers is that you don’t know what their skill and comfort levels are like. Some people are so dramatic describing the most mundane obstacles and others completely understate very dangerous and technical routes. So, who to believe? No one but myself and the landscape I see in front of me.

Tricky footing but a nice path for much of the way

One of the reports I read mentioned a 20-foot tall chimney rated 5.5 (technical, but low 5th class climbing) with no options to bypass. This stressed me out because I hate chimneys and I wasn’t bringing a rope and climbing gear. This might be the thing that turns me back, I thought. Soon after beginning the traverse, I found the spot on the ridge that the author described, and I scrambled right over it with one hand holding my hiking poles. It was a class 2+ at best. Looking back, I have no photos of this feature so it must have felt like a total non-issue at the time.

That experience assured me that I’d be fine on the rest of the route. I followed a use trail most of the way along the ridge. In some spots where it disappeared, there was just a little easy bushwhacking to get to the next section. I hit all three highpoints that were labeled on Peakery to make sure I completed the whole ridge. It was lovely up there, though it did not feel like I was in Phoenix anymore! The wind blew hard all day and the weather was dreary and cool.

Beautiful views from the ridge

The descent was the worst part for me. I followed a steep trail down the other side and somehow ended getting off route. Then I found myself in a maze of lumps and drainages that were impossible to get out of. I could see people riding bikes on the trail just ahead of me but I got stuck in a can’t-get-there-from here situation. It was maddening, but eventually I got myself out.

I dodged bikes the rest of the way back, which was annoying. Too bad I didn’t notice the trail was multi-use before I planned my route. I really try to avoid those because I believe hiking and mountain biking are not compatible uses. It’s not enjoyable to be hiking along in a constant state of worry if a biker will come barreling down the hill at you. And there were a LOT of little hills and tight turns on this trail. I could not wait to get back.

Gilia along the trail

Despite the general advice about “always stick to your plan,” I find it personally useful to have a few plans on board for hikes like this. Plan A is the big hike: the one I really want to do if everything lines up perfectly. In this case, the full traverse. Plan B is the definitely achievable but not as intriguing as Plan A. That was the up and back to the summit without the traverse. Plan C is the “oh shit” route, when something unexpected happens and you’ve got to bail. I thought about Plan C during the hike. I knew I couldn’t go down off the west side of the mountain due to the topography, but it looked like the east side had some ridges and gullies that would be annoying but passable. I’d only use Plan C if I absolutely had to.

These days, I would be completely irresponsible to go out alone WITHOUT some kind of communications device. I currently carry a Garmin InReach and previously I had a SPOT device. These are just two of several satellite communications tools that you can use to reach out in case of emergency. I haven’t had to use either device for that purpose but it’s nice to be able to message someone that you’re running late or whatever if you’re out of cell service. In the mountains surrounding Phoenix, I bet the cell service is pretty good.

I only saw a handful of people on either end of the traverse and lots of folks on the main trails. But I was likely the only one connecting the peaks today. So if you’re looking for solitude with 1.6 million people around, this is the place to go!

Happy in peaceful solitude

Vineyard Mountain

December 28, 2025.

5.7 mi. | 1310′ ele. gain | 5:10 hr.

Hiking to Vineyard Mountain

Photo Album

I was tasked with finding a fun hike to do while camping with a friend near Apache Lake. Much of the developed recreation there is geared towards water activities: fishing, boating, paddling, etc. But I noticed a trailhead that accesses the Arizona Trail, plus an added bonus: a highpoint not far from the trail. I assured my friend we’d go slow to look at plants and could turn back at any time. She agreed. Let’s go!

We arrived at the Vineyard Trailhead on a sunny morning. I was excited to see what kind of vegetation we’d find and if anything would be blooming. And, of course, I was thrilled at the chance to get a peak in there too. We met through an online art group, so we also planned to do some painting along the trail.

Apache Lake

This short section of trail was quite lovely. As we ascended the route, we got nice views looking back at the lake, dam and river. Zooming in at our feet, we delighted in all the little plants we found. I was surprised to find bright red paintbrush and some happy little phlox flowers. And I would be remiss to not mention the majestic, unusual, charismatic saguaro cactus boldly dotting the landscape.

Paintbrush

It’s always fun to take a hike with someone else who’s just as interested in investigating all the weird plants and bugs and rocks. We stopped frequently to indulge our curiosity about the natural and man-made features in the hills. She knew the area much better than I did, so I was able to learn a bit more about the human history from her.

As we approached the top of Vineyard Mountain, we had to leave the trail and walk cross-country up a gentle hill that was thick with grasses, cacti and other plants. We walked slowly to avoid all the sharp thorns and ankle-turning rocks. When walking slowly, it’s easier to find things. Up there, we found brightly colored purple owl’s clover and red maids.

View from the top

The summit area provided an incredible spot to sit and eat some lunch while overlooking the sprawling Salt River. The water sparkled in the strong sunlight. We each found a spot to take it all in. And after lunch, we got straight to painting. The scene was a bit overwhelming, and as usual, the hardest part about painting the scene was figuring out what to leave out. We enjoyed a good long break there, but eventually packed up to leave.

Plein air painting!

We hiked back the way we came. By the time we returned to camp, the temperature was dropping and the wind picked up. It dashed any hopes of kayaking the next day. But, we got to watch a magnificent sunset from camp, which was far better than any show on TV.

Sunset