Category Archives: Arizona

Acoma-Zuni Trail

February 9, 2024.

8.7 miles | 225′ ele. gain| 5:15 hr.

Photo album

I was skeptical about making a stop at El Malpais National Monument, since I’ve had my fair share of hiking in volcanic terrain. How fun would this place be? I’m in Arizona, I want to see something new.

Lava landscape

After spending half a day on the Acoma-Zuni trail, I changed my mind completely. The trail follows an ancient path used by native people to traverse the lava flow from village to village. It’s marked mostly with rock cairns placed on top of the lava. Rock on rock can be deceptively challenging to follow, so it was a bit like going on an Easter egg hunt. But that’s what made it so much fun! I enjoyed scanning the terrain for the next trail marker, moving slowly so as not to get lost or disoriented on the difficult terrain.

In addition to the uneven rock and cracks in the lava, I also had to negotiate slippery snow patches and spiky catches. It was a real obstacle course! The sunshine helped cut through the bitterly cold air and breezes. It was quiet and peaceful as I crossed the flow from one side to the other.

Just before reaching my exit trailhead, where Aaron would pick me up, I took a small detour. A tiny hump called Encerrito was too close to skip. I scrambled up the side of the butte and, to my surprise, found a summit register on top. After signing in and having a snack, I found a nice place from which to do a watercolor painting of a beautiful mountain view. The whole area was so serene and idyllic, I could have stayed there forever. But, my ankles were glad to be done. The constant walking across tilted rocks became very tiring by the end of the hike!

And then…dogs

But the clouds had rolled in and now the air was bone-chilling cold. I finished the painting and hiked back down to the trailhead. On my way, I encountered three off-leash dogs barking and barreling down the trail right at me. I had no time to react. One of the dogs tried to bite me, leaving slobber all over my pant leg. I was furious, and all the owner had to say to me was “I didn’t think anyone would be on this trail.”

No apology. He could have stopped at saying “I didn’t think.” If you have three uncontrolled and aggressive dogs, you damn well better have them leashed or don’t take them out on a trail. It snapped me out of the joyous mood I was in and made me angry for the rest of the day. I don’t know how some dog owners can be so clueless when it comes to understanding that other people exist in the world and choose not to acknowledge how their dogs’ behavior impacts other people. I’ve had enough negative dog encounters that I know this was not a rare incident. One of many reasons I try really hard to go hiking where other people aren’t. I don’t trust them to be able to handle their dogs.

To the responsible dog owners, thank you. To the people who take the time to train their dogs, thank you. To the folks who leave their aggressive dogs at home when they go hiking, thank you. To the people who keep their dogs leashed when required, thank you. I always notice and appreciate when people take pro-social steps when going out with their dogs. Since I’m allergic to dogs, it’s also important to me that “friendly” dogs do not approach me. If you’re a dog lover, please keep this in mind: not everyone wants to or can interact with your dog. And I really don’t want to have to explain this to every person I meet on the trail.

Unfortunately, we only had one day in this park, so we had to move on. I’m glad I got to see what I did, and I’d be curious to return and check out some of the other hikes, caves and highpoints.

Petrified Forest National Park

February 3-5, 2024.

Photo album

Overlooking the north side of the park

We began our tour of this remote park at the north entrance, off old Rte. 66. Petrified Forest National Park had been on my radar on a previous trip to Northern Arizona, but it was just too far off our route to add the stop. This time, I made sure to prioritize it.

I spoke with a ranger about some of the places I wanted to visit and they offered me three printed packets with route descriptions for three “off the beaten path” routes. I’d never seen anything like that at a national park! I was encouraged to explore off trail, so I gladly leapt at the chance. I noticed “Onyx Bridge” on my map and read a little bit about it online. It was one of the three routes in my pile of packets, so we decided to drive to the Painted Desert Inn to begin this hike.

Onyx Bridge

It was super windy, so we layered up. I packed ramen and tea. We walked down the switchbacks from the parking lot into a maze of painted hills below. Then, we alternated following the social trail when it was visible to following the National Park Service directions (complete with photos!) from checkpoint to checkpoint. I thought it was a fun game, like a scavenger hunt.

We arrived at a wide wash that had some water from recent rains. The ranger warned that it may not be passable. As we approached it more closely, we were able to pick a route that avoided the small stream and shiny mud, and soon we were on the other side.

Water in the desert

The social trail now a loose memory, we roughly skirted the hills to our left in search of the canyon that we’d take to find the Onyx Bridge. This landmark earned its name because it is a blackened piece of petrified wood that used to span a small depression, resembling a bridge, before it broke into pieces. I thought it would still be cool to see.

We scrambled up a small canyon and topped out at the view of Onyx Bridge. Turns out, it was worth the walk. On the way there we stopped to admire other pieces of petrified wood dotting the badlands. And on our route back we saw even more. Not satisfied with a simple out-and-back, we chose a more creative way to return to the wash crossing. There, we enjoyed views of the incredible painted hills and stumbled into slices of mica (?) that glinted in the sunlight.

Onyx Bridge

Pro tip for visiting the Petrified Forest: there is no campground in the park. But, just outside the south entrance there’s a rock shop called Crystal Forest Museum and Gifts. They have free dry camping: no toilets, water or amenities besides a place to park and a picnic table. But the price is right!

Blue Mesa

The next day, we drove into the park as soon as the gate opened at 8 am. We parked near the visitor center to use the bathroom, then went back to the van to make breakfast. It’s like our own portable cafe! As we were getting ready to go, a group of travelers popped by to ask questions about our van. They were on a long road trip from Ohio and loved talking vans with Aaron. We swapped van tours, then went on our way. Not before exchanging contact information and receiving an invite to stay with them if we happen to pass through Cleveland (and they happen to be home!)

We drove to the trailhead for the old Blue Forest trail and I began hiking according to the handout I’d gotten from the ranger. Aaron stayed at the van to fix our water filter. I wanted to paint, so I found a nice spot near the top of the hills that had a view and a nice example of a petrified log. It was lovely to spend so much time immersed in that environment, surrounded by colors and sparkles and textures. I continued along the route, following a well-worn path on the tops of the painted hills. This was the first place I was allowed (and encouraged) to walk on these features. What a unique experience.

It’s not just blue at Blue Mesa

After descending the trail on the backside, I joined the crowds on the other side and hiked up to the road, where Aaron waited for me in a pull-out.

Off the beaten path

While there are only a handful of developed trails in the park, off-trail hiking is allowed here. I spent my final day in the park wandering among the hills and through the washes without any particular destination in mind. Since my hikes are typically dictated by where Aaron can park and work for the day, I’ve gotten pretty flexible about planning where to go. It’s quite freeing to let the landscape dictate the route, deciding in the moment whether to go left or right, up or down, based on what’s in front of me. Like a choose-your-own-adventure book.

It looked so easy…

I found another spot to paint and struggled through another landscape. It’s fascinating how the geography that looks like it’s actually painted in watercolor is the most difficult (for me) to paint in watercolor. Maybe someday, I’ll figure it out.

Nonetheless, I had a quiet, restorative hike.

Mt. Ajo

January 24, 2024.

9.3 mi. | 2750′ ele. gain | 5:30 hr.

Photo album

I woke up before sunrise to drive to the Mt. Ajo trailhead in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. It was cool and overcast, which is great weather for southern Arizona hiking! As soon as I geared up and hit the trail, I found myself in a cactus paradise. Since it had rained a ton lately, I kept my eyes peeled for wildflowers. Within the first mile, I found two ocotillo plants in bloom. Their bright red flowers exploded from the gangly, green branches twisting into the sky.

Still feeling sick, I plodded uphill slowly, taking many short breaks. I committed at the start of the hike to take a longer sit-down break on the hour every hour, no matter how I was feeling, plus any additional stops I wanted. This strategy allowed ample recovery time so that I could keep hiking all day. I was the tortoise, not the hare.

I could hear water running in the canyons; an unusual sound. The trail crossed a few seasonal creeks as it climbed to its end. An unofficial route continues up to the summit of Mt. Ajo. For much of its length, the trail was well marked and brushed out, a rarity for summit scrambles! But I think Mt. Ajo is a relatively common destination and it’s located in a National Monument.

Every aspect of the route offered something new to look at and lots of reasons to stop and catch my breath. The low clouds kept the summit shrouded in mystery for most of the hike. I huffed and puffed up the steep gully leading to the final traverse, taking a few steps at a time before resting. This cold was really kicking my ass.

On the long, high traverse, I spied a few flowers: a mustard and a few paintbrush. The rocky ridge went in and out of view as the clouds shifted. When surveillance aircraft were not flying nearby, it was spectacularly quiet. Here, just a few miles from the US-Mexico border, you’re constantly reminded of how dangerous migrants are. There is lots of official signage telling you to report any suspicious activity. When I overhear conversations among tourists in the area, there’s a lot of fear, anxiety and blame. It’s unsettling, to say the least. I feel heartened when driving through local towns where there are resources for migrants and yard signs reminding folks of the basic humanity that all of us share. Hearing helicopters and sonic booms while hiking in the mountains reminds me that the U.S. sure does have a lot of money to spend, but not necessarily on the things that will reduce fear and help people thrive.

As all these thoughts swirl in my head, I reach the summit, completely immersed in water vapor. I was glad that I made myself stop for a snack break just a half mile before. It was not a pretty spot since there were antennas and equipment everywhere. I tagged the top and immediately started my descent.

Once I went down enough to get out of the coldest, wettest air, I sat down and pulled out my thermos of ramen. At that moment I was really glad I took a real lunch on my hike. So satisfying and energizing!

The rest of the day, I walked in peace. I relished every shrub, rock, trickle of water, cactus, fleeting cloud and flash of feathers. I was glad I dragged myself out of bed to be in nature, despite how bad I felt. As always, and especially as I get wiser, I give myself the option of turning around at any point. The summit is a nice treat, but it’s not a requirement. I know that every minute I spend outside is valuable no matter what I “accomplish” while I’m out there. It took me many years to come to this realization, but I think this attitude will help me continue to seek joy and solace outdoors no matter what my physical state happens to be.

As I returned to the trail and began the loop down, I ran into one other hiker. It was an older woman, wearing a big sun hat, with an InReach mini on her pack and a huge smile on her face. We shared a few lines of conversation and went on our respective ways. Her stoke filled me right up and I rode that wave of happiness all the way down to the parking lot. Damn right I’m going to be that older person one day.

Sandhill cranes at Whitewater Draw

January 6, 2024.

Photo album

Our friends in the Tucson area recommended visiting Whitewater Draw to see the sandhill cranes during their migration. It looked like an easy place to add to our route, plus there is free camping at the trailhead.

We pulled into Whitewater Draw well after dark and grabbed the last open campsite (there are only 5). As we were getting ready for bed, I noticed a strange sound. I cracked open the window and the van was overtaken by the sound of thousands of sandhill cranes calling at once.

I set an alarm for a pre-dawn wake up time. In the morning, we bundled up in several warm layers and I filled two mugs with hot coffee. As soon as we stepped out of the van, I noticed swirls of cranes flying overhead. Several other bird-watchers were already out on the trail, cameras and binoculars in hand. We slowly meandered out to the edge of a pond, amazed at the sheer quantity of avian life. Sandhill cranes are gigantic birds, so it’s exciting to only see a few of them. My brain did not know what to do with the large volume of birds in front of me.

I tugged my hat down over my ears. It was bitterly cold outside. But the pink sunrise, silhouettes of birds in flight, swaths of cartoonish birds in the lake and a warm beverage in my hand was just what I needed this morning.

As sunrise led into proper morning, more and more birds abandoned the icy ponds in search of a meal. The ducks swimming about the water’s edge seemed to relax a bit as their monstrous cousins gave them more space to spread out.

Before we set out on this trip, Aaron frequently commented on how he was excited to travel long-term so that we’d have more opportunities to see fleeting natural phenomena. This experience was what we were hoping for as we planned our travels. Taking suggestions from locals, checking newspapers and flyers in coffee shops, scanning social media coming out of the places we visit…these are all ways to get keyed in to unique experiences that you can’t just do anywhere at anytime.

Crane facts

And now, some interesting information about sandhill cranes!

  • The oldest known sandhill crane skeleton dates back to 2.5 million years!
  • Sandhill cranes can get up to 4 feet tall and weigh 12 pounds.
  • Sandhill cranes are known for their courtship dances and will mate for life.
  • They eat anything from seeds and roots to frogs, snails and small birds. They will also feast on crops like corn when available.
  • Some other places to catch sandhill cranes on their migration route are along the Platte River (Nebraska), Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge (New Mexico) and Goose Pond FWA (Indiana).

It’s one thing to read about these facts in a book or on the internet, and it’s another to see cranes with your own eyes. If you get a chance to visit sandhill cranes while they’re on their journey, you’ll fall in love with these incredible creatures.

Brown Canyon to Ramsay Canyon

January 4, 2024.

12.4 mi | 2000′ ele. gain | 5:10 hr.

Snow-kissed view

Photo album

We stayed with friends in Sierra Vista for a couple days, and they recommended hiking right from their backyard into the mountains. I couldn’t resist. With a hand-drawn map in my pocket, I walked along the neighborhood streets, admiring all the southwest architecture and noticing…a blimp? I sent a pic to my friend Sarah, who’s obsessed with all things aviation. She quickly fired back an article written from the perspective of a local who first learned about the blimp on a field trip in kindergarten. (It’s a great article, you should definitely read it). I scanned the article as the cold air froze my face and my heart sunk yet again; more surveillance. I guess that’s the tradeoff people need to learn to live with in a border town. I hate it.

Blimp.

Soon, I reached a backdoor entrance to Brown Canyon Ranch. The open desert scrub gave way to a mixed coniferous forest, which provided a nice wind buffer. By this point, I had already seen plenty of people out enjoying the trails. Mostly older folks, all on foot except for one cyclist. Despite it being mid-week and with weather coming in, everyone seemed to be having a great time!

The novelty of snow crunching underfoot on a trip to Arizona made me smile. Back in Bend, my friends were lamenting how they hadn’t been able to get their skis out yet. Everything seemed topsy-turvy. I climbed the trail into the Miller Canyon Wilderness, enjoying the water trickling in the canyon. According to my offline map, the trail should intersect with another one that traverses across to Ramsay Canyon. I planned to take the connector trail, come down through Ramsay Canyon and walk the road back to Brown canyon and to my friends’ house. They did not know I had this grand plan, of course, but how could I resist the lure of a loop over an out-and-back hike?

I tried to stay on the main trail in the canyon, despite several offshoots going off in every direction. After passing the Pomona Mine junction, I stayed left, presumably on the main trail. The snow got a little deeper, and I found myself sharing the trail only with deer prints. When I checked my map, it appeared I was off trail, but I could see water bars and other engineered features, so I kept going. Eventually my track joined the one on the map; maybe the trail was re-routed and the apps were not updated.

Agave in the snow

It was so peaceful along this stretch of the hike. Snow fell, sometimes in delicate sprinkles and sometimes in a hurry. I caught glimpses of the higher peaks through gaps in the trees. I kept moving because I had all my layers on and it was still chilly, but so many times I wanted to stop and soak in all the magic that was happening.

When I arrived at the Hamburg trail, which led down into Ramsay Canyon, I saw a flurry of human tracks. I followed them down into another gorgeous canyon lined with many different trees I didn’t bother to identify. While looking for a place to paint, I stumbled across a signed viewpoint and headed that way. I found a beautiful spot to sit. It had a clear, unobstructed view upcanyon. And the full force of the weather was upon me. I knew as soon as I sat down, the clock was ticking.

I made it about 20 minutes before my fingers were so cold I could barely hold the brush. DONE! I said, and quickly packed up my things. I held on to my open sketchbook as I hiked, hoping the paint would dry before I got down to the Nature Conservancy building.

When I arrived, I ducked inside to use the bathroom, which was lovely and warm. I chatted with a friendly volunteer and wandered through the small gift shop before continuing my walk. I still had to hike out of the canyon and get back into the neighborhoods!

As I passed through the parking area and down the road, I heard a flurry of squawks and saw some movement. Turkeys! So many turkeys, hanging out in a small greenspace. Walking up the road. Making a commotion. There were a couple groups of at least 20 each. As I kept wandering down the road, they wobbled up toward me. After the turkeys, then there were deer. First one, then another, then many more. The longer I walked, the more wildlife I saw, and all of it was located out of the boundary of the Nature Conservancy site. I had dreaded this road walk when I planned this hike, but it turned out to be one of my favorite parts! The sun had come back out, I was warm and comfortable, there was so much to look at.

Turkeys!

The last major turn took me down a dirt road to Brown Canyon Ranch. I found a trail that roughly paralleled the road and walked on that. The wind was blowing fiercely by the time I made it to the ranch, so I went inside to get a break. The ranch had been preserved with furniture, books and interpretive exhibits inside. I would have enjoyed it more if I hadn’t just walked 10 miles.

I braced myself for going back out into the wind and took a detour along a nature trail and pond. There, I saw a red tailed hawk, roadrunner and a single ring-necked duck floating on a small pond. The rest of the hike involved walking back along the side streets in Sierra Vista. What an excellent way to spend a day!

Atascosa Lookout and Peak

December 31, 2023.

7.7 mi. | 2455′ ele. gain | 5:15 hr.

Sunrise

Photo album

One more hike on the last day of the year. We parked overnight at the trailhead, where we watched another stunning sunset. And that put me in position to get a dawn start on this hike. We had plans for an early dinner with a friend outside of Tucson, so I wanted to have plenty of time.

The trail to the lookout is fairly well maintained and easy to follow. I appreciated the cool temperatures the early morning brought, even if that meant I had to rally before dark. I seemed to chase the same two deer up the trail as I hiked, although I couldn’t be sure. I was certain of how beautiful it was, with sotol, agave and prickly pear dotting the desert landscape. Gorgeous golden hills extended in all directions and each turn of the trail brought a new perspective to the mountain I was on.

Atascosa Lookout

At the small lookout site, only a foundation remained. I sat on its edge and ate a snack as I contemplated my next move. I had about a mile of bushwhacking to the true summit and my head swirled with the numerous reports I read of the route the night before. It would be tricky getting off the backside. Follow the cairned route. No, don’t follow the cairned route. It’s easy. It’s hard. Yeah, that’s what good the internet provides. I knew I’d just have to figure it out on my own.

I was not a huge fan of how the descent looked off the summit. Below my feet were what appeared to be loose aggregations of boulders held together by prickles and spines. I carefully descended right of center to avoid the worst bits and then veered back toward the ridge proper. Once I got back on track, I still had to figure out my way through or over the maze of boulders between the lookout and the summit. Occasionally, I stumbled across a cairn, but no two cairns were visible at the same time so they were pretty useless. I kept my eyes looking ahead at the destination and tried to avoid the worst of the vegetation and drop-offs.

Atascosa Peak

It was slow but not too awful. Only a few moves required my full attention. I noticed specific kinds of debris along the way: a torn backpack, a shoe, a can of snuff, an empty tuna packet. Flotsam from migrants or smugglers traveling between the US and Mexico. As I’ve come to spend time along the border, the politics, tensions and humanity of this invisible line is very apparent. I paused to think about the difficulty of traversing a landscape like this when your life depends upon it, versus being out on a fun little day hike. I only had to walk on this ridge for a mile, what about those who need to travel tens or hundreds of miles? In the heat, with no water sources and with every plant trying to tear the flesh from your bones? It’s incredible that anyone makes it through.

December phlox!

At the summit, I enjoyed the serene landscape and plotted my return. I tried to follow the cairns back, which I almost did. When I lost them for good, I stood and looked around for any sign of the route. I didn’t find it, but I did notice three furry tails sticking into the air like periscopes: coatis! It was my first wild sighting. When I worked in a zoo right out of college, I took care of a couple coatis. Otherwise, I likely wouldn’t have known of their existence.

The coati was too busy rooting around for food to show its face.

I was so glad to have let the cairns pull me off course for this chance sighting. Once they shuffled off, I fought my way back on the ridge and found the cairns again. I followed them until they petered out again. At that point I ended up in a thicket of catclaw acacia just below the lookout. It tore at every piece of clothing and square inch of exposed skin as I moved along the shortest path through it. Then, at the base of the previously intimidating, crumbly step that I avoided on my way down, I realized it actually wasn’t that bad. I scurried straight up the rock and landed right on top of the concrete lookout base. It’s amazing how something can look completely different from an alternate perspective.

Not too far down the trail, I ran into my first people of the day. Then a couple more. I raced down the path so that we’d have plenty of time to make it to my friend’s house for dinner. I couldn’t help but stop at all the interesting little cacti and towering dead agave plants. It still feels like such a foreign landscape, everything so curious and inviting!

Picacho Peak

December 24, 2023.

7.9 mi. | 2340′ ele. gain | 7 hr.

Photo album

We spent the night among the saguaro at Picacho Peak State Park (pronounced pee-KAH-cho). In the morning, we weighed our hiking options. We could drive to the trailhead, do the short but steep hike up the peak and back, or we could hike from the campground. I thought the flat trail leading to the trailhead would be a nice warmup for the main course, so that’s what we did.

Along the flats, we heard and saw many birds that we were just getting to know, like the cactus wren and gila woodpecker. At the trailhead, we paused to look at the map and prepare for the steep switchbacks that were soon to come. I had read a little about this trail so I knew there were cables and ladders near the top. It sounded like a fun adventure.

We arrived at the cables much sooner than necessary; they felt like a nuisance on some of the earlier sections. Maybe, I thought, they were useful when the ground was wet? It seemed like an over-engineered situation for most people.

At the saddle, before the real climbing began, we ran into a volunteer ranger. He was friendly and offered up some useful tips for the next portion of the hike. He also confirmed that our plan to climb to the top and the circle around the backside was a good one. With that, we started hiking…down! The trail drops several hundred feet before ascending again. Now, I was sure glad for those cables! Some of the rock was steeply slanted and slippery, with plenty of exposure to cactus-studded slopes below.

We encountered many other groups on the final ascent to the summit. Some were wearing santa hats and there were choruses of “Merry Christmas!” every few minutes. The mood was fun and cheery; everyone seemed to be having a great time.

When we got to the summit, a huge cloud bank had taken over the sky. With the sun tucked behind the huge gray drapes, temperatures dropped quite a bit. Most people were dressed lightly for a quick Arizona mountain hike. But we’d packed fleeces and wind layers so we could hang out on top as long as we wanted. We ate lunch, then I painted and Aaron read his book. It stayed fairly quiet up there as people came and quickly left.

On the way down, we followed the cables back to the junction with the Sunset Vista trail, which looped around the south side of the mountain. Here’s where we found the steepest and most fun section of cables bolted to a long slab. Conveniently located indents in the rock created a stair-step pattern that made me question whether they were added by humans or not. Starting from the top, we couldn’t see where the cables ended up; they disappeared into the abyss. Good times.

The backside of the mountain was refreshingly quiet. We enjoyed the variety of scenery and all the cactus. A short road walk from the trail led back to the campground. If I were to do it all over again, I’d choose to do it the same way. But maybe in spring when all the wildflowers are blooming!

Lost Dutchman State Park

December 20-23, 2023.

Cliffs containing the Flatiron

Photo album

With rain in the forecast and having no prior experience dispersed camping in Arizona, I decided our best bet would be to camp in actual campgrounds. It’s not my favorite thing to do, but I didn’t want to get stuck in the mud. We were fast approaching the Christmas holiday and I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to find a place to stay, but I lucked out and booked 3 nights at Lost Dutchman State Park.

As we pulled into our campsite, I was thrilled to see it guarded by a huge saguaro! Another bucket list item checked off. Previously, I’d only seen saguaro cactus in the roadrunner cartoons. I’d been dying to see one in real life. And here they were, all over the park. Maybe it wouldn’t be so bad to stay in a campground.

Later that afternoon, I got sick and tired of being sick and tired so I decided to take an easy walk. I threw on my backpack, which is always ready to go, and set off on a trail in the campground. Within 5 minutes of walking, I saw the flash of shiny feathers: a roadrunner! Then, the quick blur of a rabbit’s tail. Gila woodpeckers clinging to the sides of the saguaro. Chattering curved-bill thrashers. It was a wildlife paradise. And the backdrop to this nature show: the dramatic, towering spires of the Superstition Mountains.

Roadrunner

Flatiron

According to my research, there is one thing to do here, and that is to climb the Flatiron. It is only six miles roundtrip, but with 2600′ elevation gain and some steep sections, it would be a push. I was still feeling pretty sick, but with the rain coming the next day I knew this was my only chance. I left early and loaded up a bag with supplies so I could take all the time I needed. Being under the weather is no fun, but I knew I’d feel better after hiking up a hill.

Welcome to the Superstitions

I followed the trail as it gradually ascended the slopes below the striking massif in front of me. At the base of Siphon Draw, a large gully slicing into the rock cliffs, the trail steepened. I began seeing a few other hikers on the trail. I let them pass me, opting to take lots of rest and move as slowly as my body needed to. It was so beautiful; I was in no rush.

The trail abruptly ended at a slickrock bowl that funneled into the gully. The inviting, smooth rock ended all too soon. Not entirely sure where to go at this point, I followed the path of least resistance into a brushy cactus slope to my right. Had the other hikers gone left? It looked like that led to a dry waterfall! Stopping to catch my breath and blow my nose, I looked up and saw an old man tying his boot. “Oh hi!” I said, and we exchanged some pleasantries. I picked up on his New England accent right away so we chatted some more. It was his first time on the route as well, and he also seemed unsure which way to go. “This way looks good,” I said and took off up the hill. He started up behind me at an even slower pace. I didn’t want to wait for him, but I felt bad leaving him behind.

Just as I had that thought, I saw a couple headed towards me, then I heard some more voices. Of course, this is a popular route, there will be plenty of people to keep eyes on that guy. I pushed ahead.

Watch your step

From that point on, I picked my way up the gully one step at a time. I kept seeing more people, headed up and headed down. People hiking solo and people in groups. Old people, young people, kids, families. People with no backpacks, people with supplies, people with water bottles. People in jeans, shorts, t-shirts, hiking garb, track suits. I actually couldn’t believe how many people were up here in this pretty gnarly, dirty chute. It felt more like New England hiking than west coast hiking, a very rough, get-to-the-top kind of route. Either the people out here are really badass or oblivious to the hazards; I guessed a bit of each.

Near the top of the gully, I got stuck behind a large group of hikers who were calling out every single move for every single person. I stopped and waited for them to figure it out, then started walking again. I didn’t mind the break. Well, after repeating this about ten times and getting pretty annoyed I finally grabbed an opportunity to pass. That obstacle sorted, I had one more to go: a ten-foot vertical step. Wait, what? If I hadn’t seen people coming down that section I would have been really confused where to go. But there it was. I wasn’t too concerned about getting up but I knew I’d hate coming down. I figured if all these yokels could do it, I’d sort it out later. Up I went and hurried off to the viewpoint.

It was an absolute circus of people when I got up there, all talking loudly for some reason, so I took a quick picture and scampered off. I saw two alternate highpoints to scramble to from the top of the Flatiron and decided to head toward Ironview Peak.

Gendarmes

Its summit is guarded by a labyrinth of gendarmes. Not to mention all the cactus, too. I carefully sniffed out a path between all these obstructions, which meant some crawling under, scrambling over and squeezing in between those big rock spires. After 20 minutes or so, I looked up towards the final section and saw two heads looking down at me.

“Is there an actual trail up here?” I asked. They mentioned something about a path marked with cairns, then we talked a but about hiking in the area. Once we parted ways I was just a few minutes away from the summit marker. From that peak, I delighted in views of the Superstitions that I couldn’t get from the Flatiron. I was in awe. Once I found a good sit spot, I ate my lunch and did some painting. A curious rock wren kept me company most of the time. Crows circled overhead. This place was magic.

On the way down, I was able to pick up my pace. I lingered on top; I knew Aaron would be wondering what took me so long. Luckily my snotty airways were not a hindrance coming down and my legs felt strong. Once I got to that wall I’d been dreading, I was very close to asking someone below to spot me. But he left before I could utter the words. Alone, I remembered what I observed on my hike up and rehearsed the moves in my head. I really hate downclimbing. But, I pulled it together and it was easier than I thought. With that behind me, it was easy to scramble the rest of the route down to the trail. I messaged Aaron to let him know my ETA and happily bounded down the remainder of the hike.

Camping in the rain

The rest of our time at Lost Dutchman was pretty chill. The campground is quite nice. I loved being surrounded by Saguaro cactus. There were many other cool cacti and plants and spring must bring bursts of wildflowers. The dreary clouds and moisture had its own charm as well.

We took a couple of field trips, one to the Goldfield Ghost Town for dinner and holiday lights (skippable) and the Superstition Mountain Museum. I really enjoyed the history museum, especially because we had the whole place to ourselves! We learned a ton about the myth of the Lost Dutchman mine that drew many a prospector trying to strike it rich. Plus displays teaching about Native Americans, infrastructure, natural history and more. There were several walking paths and outdoor exhibits that would have been nicer on a warm, spring day. But it was brown, drizzly and cold. The highlight for me was finding a small covey of Gambel’s quail, a new quail for my list!

How different the desert looks in the rain

Cape Final

May 17-18, 2022.

4.2 mi | 400′ ele. gain | overnight

cape final

In looking for a quiet and unique experience at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, I stumbled across a blog describing an overnight trip to Cape Final. It described an easy 2 mile walk out to a single backpacking site along the rim of the canyon. Sounded perfect! So, what was the catch? You had to secure a permit ahead of time to reserve the site. I dug around the NPS website to learn about reserving permits, and I learned that I missed the first possible date to send an application in by a few weeks. Undeterred, I faxed (yes, faxed) my application in and just a few days later learned that we got the site!

Fast forward to the afternoon of May 17. We had just finished the scenic drive and accumulated a few miles of hiking already. The sun was blazing hot, but this hike promised shade trees. We loaded up our overnight packs with every possibly luxury (since the pack in was so short!) and slowly began plodding up the trail.

We passed a few groups hiking out, all of whom were shocked that you could camp up there. Yes! I thought, my planning had really paid off. Cheery purple larkspur dotted the trail through the airy Ponderosa pine forest. In fact, I couldn’t even tell we were at the Grand Canyon; it was forest in every direction. After nearly 2 miles of walking, we finally got some peek-a-boo views of the canyon at the edge of the trees. The trail took a sharp right turn and soon deposited us at a little campsite marker just before the sign for Cape Final.

We quickly dropped our backpacks at the flat spot behind the sign. But Aaron noticed another flat spot tucked just behind some trees, and there it was: the ultimate campsite. We hoisted our heavy packs up once more and claimed this more private site as ours for the night.

After setting up camp, we gathered up food, beer and layers and walked out to the viewpoint. It was even more spectacular than I’d expected. We’d already seen so many incredible vistas, so I didn’t think this one would be any different. But this provided a panoramic view over deep, dramatic gorges; we could hardly figure out which one held the Colorado River just by looking out at the landscape.

I happily drank my Grand Canyon Prickly Pear Wheat Ale, accompanied by prickly pear cactus on the edge of the Grand Canyon, and we watched the setting sun paint ephemeral pictures of the cliff edges all around us. Vultures played in the thermals rising up from the warm canyon bottom as we reclined on the rocks. It was so quiet and peaceful.

And then we went into the tent to sleep. *Snort*. Those lovely thermals turned into ripping gale force winds that rattled the tent, the trees, my brain and everything else all night long. The nearly full moon blasted through the thin nylon walls like a bright headlight. And the remarkably hot air made this cold sleeper crawl out of the bag, sweating, for the duration of the night. I barely got an hour of sleep over the course of the evening. I could not wait for my alarm to go off.

I set an alarm for 50 minutes before sunrise, but it was already light by the time the alarm rang. We sprang out of bed and rushed to the viewpoint to catch the sunrise. I fumbled back to the food bag I hung last night to grab our coffee making supplies, because when else in my life would I be able to sip coffee with the sunrise at the edge of the Grand Canyon?!

Admittedly, the sunrise was not that exciting. But I couldn’t sleep anyways and the coffee tasted good. We returned to our camp where I made breakfast: dehydrated eggs, kale, turkey sausage and onions, topped with hash browns. Better than any lodge breakfast you could have asked for! We slowly packed up and then I scouted a morning watercolor spot while Aaron poked around and took more photos.

We stumbled across several other overlooks, arguably better than the official Cape Final, until I settled on my favorite one. For the next couple hours, it was just me and the birds and the ever changing light on the canyon.

cape final watercolor

To say this was a highlight of the trip is an understatement. Despite all the advance planning and anticipation (which can sometimes make a place feel *less* exciting once you finally get there), finding so much solitude and peace at Cape Final was worth the effort. I’ll catch up on sleep some other time.

See all our photos from the North Rim here.

Cape Royal Scenic Drive

May 17, 2022.

The Cape Royal Scenic Drive is an excellent way to spend the day getting acquainted with the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. We began our drive around 9 am and made a point to stop at every pullout and scenic viewpoint, 11 stops in all.

The first few stops only had an interpretive signboard to read. Several made note of the role wildfire plays in the ecosystem. Others talked about the creation of the park and other historical facts. The best stops were, of course, the ones that involved at least a little walking.

Point Imperial, the highest and most northern of the North Rim viewpoints, has a large parking area and developed viewpoint. We got out there, walked past several old Rolls Royce cars that were touring the park, and meandered over to the official overlook. The views were breathtaking. It was still early, so we were among a small handful of people who were out and about. I enjoyed having some time to soak in the views without feeling rushed to get out of anyone’s way.

Next, we stopped at Greenland Lake. More a puddle than a lake, we followed a decent trail counterclockwise until we reached an old salt shed. From there, the trail disappeared. But, determined to circumnavigate the soggy depression, we pressed on through thorny thickets made of New Mexican Locust until we returned to the main trail.

We took another short walk at Roosevelt Point, where a short scramble off the official trail led to a rock outcropping with a tremendous view. The gnarled old trees and wildflowers added some drama to what was already a pretty dramatic vista.

The next interpretive stop was Walhalla Pueblo. I downloaded the guide from the NPS app and read aloud the description of each room of the pueblo as we walked by it. Without the guide, it would be a bunch of boring lines of stone on the ground, so I was grateful to have the information on my phone to provide context to what we were looking at.

After lunch, we headed down the Cliff Spring Trail. I had low expectations for this hike, but it was just the thing to get out of the heat! A short, steep walk down through open forest led us past an old granary and then to a shady pathway leading under an overhanging rock. The walls of the rock were wet; moss and plants grew there. As we neared the spring, water began to pool at our feet. It was obvious why Native Americans used this area to escape the intense heat just a quarter mile away! I was ready to move in for good after just a short time in the sun.

We continued past the spring and the end of the official trail. The user path was nearly as good as the actual one. Anyway, the vegetation got more diverse and interesting as we walked. I recognized several plants from previous trips to the southwest: Mormon tea, buffaloberry, agave…but as the path began to deteriorate, we decided we had to call it somewhere.

Cape Royal marked the end of the road. Suddenly, it felt like we were back in a National Park. Most of the other stops, even the ones with trails, were very quiet. But here, the large parking area was bustling with people. Hikers walking right past the “No dogs” sign with their dogs. People taking Instagram selfies right on the edge of the cliffs. Large groups of people oblivious to anyone else trying to walk around them. All what you’d expect at a National Park. I grumbled to myself that the whole day had been really lovely and I could tolerate this nonsense for a half an hour.

We read all the signs along the paved paths, learning about the unique ecosystem at this very point. Apparently, warm winds blowing up from the canyon below create a microclimate in which lower elevation cactus and shrubs can thrive. I was delighted to try and spot as many cacti as I could while we tried to avoid the worst of the crowds.

I was surprised at how few guard rails there were at major viewpoints, and also at how close people walked to the edges of dizzyingly high cliffs. I’ll never forget the rule I learned in rock climbing: never get closer than a body-length away from an edge unless you’re anchored in. Clearly, this is not a universal rule. Even where guard rails existed, they were barely waist high and didn’t really make me feel much safer. I have a great respect for heights and kept my distance from the edges. Watching people’s super casual behavior here is what inspired us to buy the book about deaths in Grand Canyon.

In a single day of exploring with several easy walks to punctuate the car time, the Cape Royal Scenic Drive was an excellent way to gain an appreciation for the natural and human history of the North Rim.