Author Archives: Jess B

A hike in every state: Midwest pt 3

Iowa | Illinois | Indiana | Ohio

We finish our hiking tour of the Midwest with what I call the “I states”: Iowa, Illinos, Indiana and Ohio. Here, you’ll find a surprising diversity of hiking options that include forests, wetlands, meadows, canyons, hills and more. Depending on the season you might experience great bird migrations, carpets of wildflowers or stunning fall color. I’ll never refer to these states as “flyover states” again. This list is only the tip of the iceberg for outdoor explorers. Use these ideas as a starting point for exploring this part of the country.

Iowa

When you see a hill in Iowa, you frame it.

Iowa, a land of endless corn fields and…what else? I had to go to find out. Here are some things you may not know about Iowa. It is bordered on the east and west by rivers: the Mississippi, Missouri and Big Sioux. A few notable natural lakes exist today and there was much more surface water in the past. Nearly 95% of the 4-6 million acres of wetlands have been drained to make way for agriculture. Loess hills in the west rise up from the flat prairies. The Driftless area in the northeast corner contains steep bluffs, mounds and exposed bedrock. Iowa’s cities are charming and walkable. Check the local chamber of commerce where you’re visiting for scavenger hunts, bingo cards and ice cream trails! Even the state highpoint is developed for visitors (though it is in a flat field). If you’ve never thought of Iowa as a hiking destination, think again and consider what unique experiences are on offer here.

Brent’s Trail: A hike on Brent’s Trail requires some stamina, time and a set of hiking poles! You’ll traverse the steep ups and downs of the Loess Hills on this one-way trek. Along the way you’ll see quintessential farm views, quiet forests, open prairies and interesting rocks. Keep your eyes and ears open to observe some of the hundreds of bird species that call this place home. And learn about the man behind the trail who had a vision to share his love of these unusual Iowa hills with others.

Illinois

Just another day hiking in Illinois.

Chicago is a walker’s paradise, but there’s oh-so-much-more to see in the Land of Lincoln. Illinois boasts 63 state parks, 8 national wildlife refuges and many city parks, trails and other open spaces. Aside from hiking, you can canoe, swim, rock climb, ride horses and view wildlife. Like Iowa, the geography is strongly influenced by its rivers and its history of agricultural use. Though it is called the Prairie State, less than 1% of its original prairie lands remain. To get a sense of what today’s Illinois is all about, be sure to sample a few different parks and trails in different parts of the state.

Starved Rock State Park: I had no idea what I was getting into during my visit to Starved Rock. What I found was wonder and beauty around every corner. Even in the “off” season, this was a beautiful place to visit. Trails loop through canyons and along rivers, up into the forest and over creeks. It made me feel like just a tiny piece of the west was transported across the Mississippi River.

Indiana

Serene morning over the river

Indiana, the Hoosier State, though no one knows why. It’s also a big agricultural state, with soybeans and corn far outpacing the acreage of all the other crops. It’s a long state, so the terrain and climate change quite a bit as you travel from north to south. It is generally pretty flat with some rolling hills, plus some deep river valleys and sand dunes that can reach 200 feet in height. As the glaciers receded in the last ice age, they left behind hundreds of little kettle lakes in the northern side. Whereas the limestone in the south is pockmarked with caves and springs. There’s plenty for the outdoor explorer in Indiana!

Turkey Run State Park: If you love obstacle courses, you’ll love Turkey Run state park! If you don’t, you’ll still love it because all the adventurous trails are optional. The trails here take you to historic sites, riverside views and exciting canyons. There is also a campground, nature center, swimming pool and playground. In addition to turkeys, watch out for woodpeckers, bald eagles, warblers and other songbirds. It is also close to Shades State Park and other natural areas in case it leaves you hungry for more.

Ohio

The Ledges at Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

Would you believe that Ohio is the seventh most populous state in the U.S.? You’ll have to work to get off the beaten path here, but fortunately there are some incredible natural spaces that have been preserved for locals and visitors alike to escape urban sprawl. In addition to Cuyahoga National Park, there are 76 state parks with activities for all seasons and all interests. As with the rest of the Midwest, much of the terrain is flat, but it does have some notable exceptions like Platte Park Gorge and Tar Hollow State Park. Arrive with curiosity and you’ll find Ohio has many surprises to share with you.

Aullwood Audubon Center: I can’t resist a troll exhibit, so that’s what brought me to this park. But even without it, Aullwood Garden provides a wonderful breath of fresh air amid the cities and towns of the Dayton Metro area. Come here for birds, plants, serenity, public art or all of the above. Check out the events calendar for activities, hikes and family programs. It’s a place you’d want to have a membership to if you lived in the area so you could pop in any time and see what’s new in the garden. If it’s not in your neighborhood, take this as a reminder to become a member at a local garden or park where you live!

You know I couldn’t resist.

Aullwood Audubon Center

April 2, 2026.

Redbud blooms

Photo album

We parked for the day at Englewood MetroPark, thinking it would be an easy walk over to Aullwood Garden to see the trolls and botanical garden and such. It was not easy, per se, but do-able, so I have notes for both places in this post.

Five Rivers MetroParks manages 18 urban parks in and around Dayton, Ohio. It’s a great system of preserved natural spaces that’s supported by regional tax revenue. I found them excellent places to spend the day (for free!) outside of the bustle of city life.

Great day for a walk

Low clouds clung to the surface of the murky Rock Pile Lake. It didn’t look like a prime day for a walk, but by the time I got mobilized, the sun came out. I walked along the road connecting the two parks, looking for early spring wildflowers along the way. Though my route looked intuitive on the map, it was not designed for pedestrians and I had to dodge a few cars on the way. Once I reached the Aullwood Audubon Visitor Center, I negotiated the hectic check in area to pay my fee, get a map and begin my walk. This park is NOT part of the MetroPark system, so it has separate fees and hours that you should note before your visit.

During the time of my trip, there were three Thomas Dambo trolls to find. I’m not sure if that’s why it was so busy or if this is just a really popular place. I looked at my map and strode steadily towards the first troll.

Troll number one

This one was my favorite of the three. Its giant, upright form was fitted with large wings. From its position at the top of a small hill, it looked like it was just about to go airborne. It’s hard to imagine how wood and scrap recycling can create such a sense of animation, but Dambo always makes it happen. I admired it from all sides and climbed up to the lookout platform to get a view from above. It was so peaceful away from the whirl of people and strollers at the entrance gate.

After visiting the other two trolls, which were swarming with people, I sought out some longer and more peaceful trails on the property. There was so much room to spread out. And, so many flowers! I delighted in the rolling hills covered in bluebells, with deciduous trees just starting to leaf out overhead. Little streams trickled across the property as well, collecting in ponds and pouring over small cascades. I looked for frogs, turtles and birds at each watery habitat.

Bluebells

As I strolled along the quieter trails of the park, I wished I’d brought a book to read. It was so peaceful and there were plenty of places where you could sit and enjoy just being in this beautiful setting. But alas, I still had to walk all the way back to the van. I strode confidently back down the road connecting the two parks, keeping my head on a swivel for both cars and native plants. I had to chuckle as I passed the entrance and saw a sign that said “Native wildflower area.” I scanned the ground, seeing not one single flower. I hoped that come summertime, this field would be overrun with goldenrod and milkweed and coneflower. But today, I had to look to other parts of the park for the violets, fawn lilies and other delicate reminders of spring.

In my travels across the country, I am especially excited when I see an urban area that has carefully considered preserving open space. Three cheers to the visionaries of the past who foresaw the need for trees and lakes, walking paths and playgrounds, gardens and wildflower patches. It is clear to me the further I travel east that these patches of land are few and far between. In the west, we take for granted how much public land still exists. We only need to look east to see where our future lies, if we let it. Protecting public lands from the inevitable creep of “progress” will likely continue to be a big fight for those of us who want it.

It’s worth contemplating the world we want to live in.

Turkey Run State Park

March 25, 2026.

Spring flowers

Photo album

11.4 mi. | 1220′ ele. gain |6:10 hr

Indiana does not come to mind when I think “great state to go for a hike.” But, it does have 24 state parks one national park, a national historic trail and thousands of miles of hiking trails. I chose Turkey Run State Park for my first taste of hiking in Indiana.

I had just done two surprisingly cool hikes in nearby states at Starved Rock State Park (Illinois) and Ledges State Park (Iowa), so my expectations were high for this park. And still, the adventure was even better than expected.

The Ladders

The Ladders

In the morning, Aaron joined me for a hike on one of the most adventurous trail. Trail 3 is unofficially known as the Ladders Trail because of the ladders you must climb to scale the canyon walls on this hike. We set out in our Bedrocks sandals expecting some water, mud and scrambling.

The day began with partly cloudy skies and a brisk temperature. We crossed the bridge over Sugar Creek and turned left. A sneaky right turn about a quarter mile from there took us into our first interesting canyon. The moss covered rock walls narrowed and made it even cooler since the sun could barely reach down in there. We found ferns, liverworts and sedges growing in its damp, cold passageways. Footing ranged from slippery rock to deep, slippery mud with some logs and rocks to use to hop across.

We encountered the ladder and some stairs that helped us climb out of the canyon and back into the forest. After a short, mellow stretch, we dropped into one more canyon and parkoured our way through. It was fun to balance and maneuver on, over and around obstacles to get to the other side. I left Aaron at the van and went back out to link up several other trails in the park.

Canyons in Indiana?!

The Perimeter

From the parking area, I roughly made a counter-clockwise loop around the perimeter of the park like so: Trail 1 – Trail 2 – Trail 1 – Trail 4 – Trail 10 – Trail 3 – Trail 5 – Trail 3. Confused? Yeah, me too. I tried to find the biggest loop I could with no trail segment repeats while hitting the most named features, but that was impossible. A few surprise trail closures made me change my route on the fly as well. I highly recommend having a paper copy of the map as well as a map on your phone so you can navigate the many interconnecting paths in this park! Though I had to re-do some sections of the ladder canyon hike I’d done in the morning, I did them in the opposite direction, which was pretty fun.

Trout lilies

At this time of year, the deciduous forest was brown and mostly barren. The very first flowers of spring were poking their heads through the dry, crinkly leaf litter. I observed trout lilies, violets, blodroot, toothwort and two species of Dicentra! Plus, I noticed several insects who were excitedly visiting these early bloomers.

Most of the trails I’d hiked that afternoon were much more casual and tame than the canyons I explored with Aaron. But they were peaceful, enjoyable, relaxing. After crossing the Narrows Covered Bridge, I walked to the edge of the picnic are and pulled out my lunch. I sat on the ground, put my backpack behind me and reclined into my bag full of unnecessary layers. By then, the temperature had risen and I was overjoyed to feel the sun’s warmth on my skin.

Peaceful trail

After that nice rest stop, I lollygagged on the outer trails. The map showed a Trail 12 that would take me around the area of the park I investigated earlier, but alas it was not accessible. That meant I had to repeat two sections of trail 3, one uphill and one downhill. I was not too sad about it. On the home stretch, I noticed a little path that led down to the river and a small beach area. I popped down there for another rest break by the water. I looked and listened for birds as I took a reclining position on the riverbank.

All in all, I spent a good chunk of the day poking around this park. It was beautiful, even before spring had really sprung. It was mostly quiet, especially in the morning. There was plenty of room to spread out on the numerous trails. And, there was something for everyone. My favorite parts of the park were in the narrow canyons because they were fun to explore and the plant life was totally different in there. I’d be interested to visit this park in the different seasons to see what else lives there.

I will not have enough time to visit too many places in Indiana, so I was grateful to see this really cool park in the first few days of our stay here.

First bluebells of the year