A hike in every state: Mountain West pt 1

Classic views from Glacier National Park, Montana

Montana | Wyoming | Idaho | Nevada

Welcome to the next installment of “A hike in every state!” Since the Mountain West region of the United States contains 8 states, I’m splitting it up into two separate posts. If you haven’t yet read the purpose and thought process behind this series, please go back and read the first post about the Pacific Coast. I have spent scarcely any time in this region, especially compared to the Pacific Coast States. My recommendations are based only on what I’ve experienced, so these hikes may change once I get a chance to return. But for now, here are some fun places to discover in these four states. Now, let’s get on to the hikes!

Montana

When you think of Montana, what comes to mind? You’re probably picturing mountains. In fact, “montaƱa” means “mountain” in Spanish. But there are two sides to this vast state: the mountainous side and the flat side. You’ll begin to recognize this theme in several western states. Visitors to the state should definitely get up to Glacier National Park, spend time in one of the four cities with over 50,000 residents and gaze up at their famous “big sky.” But hidden in plain view on the far eastern edge of the state, you’ll find this gem…

Makoshika State Park: We were simply looking for a place to stay along this part of our cross-country drive and decided to pull in here. What we found was peaceful solitude, dazzling dark skies, unique rock formations and excellent hiking. This is Montana’s largest state park; Makoshika roughly translates to “badlands” in Lakota. That’s the star of the show here. Several miles of trails take hikers right up to otherworldly rock formations that you’ve got to see to believe. You won’t think of Montana the same after hiking around this spectacular park.

Wyoming

Devil’s Tower, photo from NPS.gov

Wyoming is known for Yellowstone National Park, with its abundant wildlife, dramatic landscapes, extreme seasons and bustling tourist industry. For just that last reason, I’ve never stepped foot in Yellowstone. I’m sure it’s incredible, but there are plenty of amazing places outside of America’s first national park. Wyoming has so much to offer, from its mountains and lakes to vast grasslands and interesting historic sites. You’ve most certainly heard of my recommendation below, but have you taken the time to walk around it? Let’s go!

Devil’s Tower: When I visited back in 2006, it was far less crowded than it was today. But I’ll never forget hiking the 1.8 mile Tower Trail encircling the giant rock formation and pausing several times to look up in awe. Click the link above to learn about other trails that help you explore a larger slice of the park.

If you’re a rock climber, you’ll certainly drool over the possibility of jumping on a route here. Please remember to register at the climbing kiosk and respect the June climbing closure. Click here to learn more about climbing at the monument. I visited before I got into rock climbing, so that thought never crossed my mind!

Though this place can be extremely busy during the summer, it’s worth a visit. I clearly remember my stop here along my first big drive across the country, and I hope to get back there someday. I did this hike so long ago, all my photos are gone, so I had to pull one from the NPS website.

Idaho

View of the high alpine lake below Thompson Peak

A land of rugged mountains, vast wilderness and more opportunities for outdoor activities than you could shake a stick at, Idaho is a hiker’s paradise. Despite being very close to Oregon, I admit I haven’t made too many trips out to the Gem State. But each one is seared into my memory due to big views, exceptional mountain landscapes and a plethora of flora and fauna. Idaho delivers on scenery and quality wilderness experiences. It’s way more than just a place that grows a ton of potatoes. No matter what you like to do in the outdoors, you’ll find a way to scratch that itch in Idaho. Over 70% of Idaho is public land, so there’s more than enough to keep you busy for a lifetime. One trip to Idaho won’t be enough for the outdoor enthusiast. I was drawn to this state for the mountains, so I present to you…

Thompson Peak: This is the highpoint of the Sawtooth Mountains. The hike is not technical, but it’s not easy either. While it can be completed in a day, my friend and I spread this hike out over two days so we could enjoy a night of camping at a high alpine lake beneath its summit. I’m glad we did this because that gave us time to jump in the lake and explore a nearby peak while we were up there (well, one of us added the extra peak!). Standing atop Thompson Peak will get you motivated to climb all the other peaks out there, since there are craggy mountains as far as the eye can see. It is a class three peak with no official trail to the top, so do your research, check the weather and trail conditions and arrive prepared. Start by reading up on SummitPost and Idaho: a Climbing Guide before heading out on this adventure.

Nevada

Aspens at the trailhead for Arc Dome hike

Vegas, baby! While the shimmering lights, raucous casinos and over-the-top commercialism of Las Vegas may be the biggest thing that gets your attention in Nevada, that accounts for just a tiny region of the state. Eighty seven percent of Nevada’s land is public, second only to Alaska. It has over 300 named mountain ranges, more hot springs than any other state and a large number of endemic species. It is a dry and lonely state. If you venture beyond the major cities, you might be without gas or services for hundreds of miles. But within that vastness lies unspeakable beauty and endless opportunities for exploration and learning. Some places you may have heard of include Great Basin National Park, Lake Tahoe and Lake Mead. Nevada also has 27 state parks, 9 National Wildlife Refuges and the 1090 mile long Basin and Range Trail. This featured hike will take you into one of Nevada’s largest wilderness areas and up into a remote mountain range.

Arc Dome: This is a big hike with 5000′ of elevation gain, but it encapsulates so much of what Nevada is all about. It is a harsh, desolate landscape. When I hiked it in May 2022, snow still clung to the north facing slopes in the mountains. It is far from anything. I had to make a concerted effort to get there, since it’s not located near a town of any size. It’s dramatic; the mountains look like lumbering beasts rising up from the broad valleys below. Had I visited a bit later in the season, I would have been treated to all sorts of beautiful plants that are well-adapted to the high elevation, short growing season and lack of rainfall. If you’re into lists, Arc Dome is on the Ultra 57, Las Vegas Mountaineers Club 50 Peaks and the Sierra Club Desert Peaks Section. But despite all that, it’s just a pretty place in the mountains to enjoy some solitude and fresh air, no matter how far you walk or how many peaks you climb.

Have you been to any of these states? Which hikes would you highlight? There are so many great trails to visit in each of these places and there are no right answers as to which ones are the best, most iconic or the most worth doing. The best trail is the one you’re walking on, so just get out and enjoy!

Hiking in Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas, Nevada.

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